Details: Carrying show invites in style

Whilst my LFW show invitations were stuffed in an inadequately sized envelope, Dal Chodha opted for a quilted haven. The H by Harris Q1 Skin Diamond in blue served him well during Menswear Day. 

Satyenkumar SS12

Satyenkumar is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for us modern eccentric English playboys. After graduating with an MA from Central Saint Martins and honing his craft with Versace and Ashish, the design talent decided to go it alone for AW06. Having long admired his work from afar, it was not until I took my seat at his SS10 show, Reflection through a lens, that my eyes were really opened to the designer. In a season where so many designers delivered a surprisingly dark, industrial, almost sombre colour palette, Satyen dazzled with his kaleidoscopic travel through a lens. It might have been a typical September afternoon in London but examining Satyen's colourful craftsmanship transported me to an Ibiza beach at sunset. Seemingly weightless outwear, jean inspired trousers and pyjama shorts, sheer/dense mix shirts, rainbow patch worked vests and featherlight unlined blazers in Swiss Voile, Habotai and Tulle. A true celebration of colour and lightweight tailoring. I was hooked. However, this addict was only treated to one more season before the designer took a couple of seasons out. Despite not being the loudest of designers, his absence was noticed. Thankfully, Satyenkumar makes his welcome return for SS12 and I can exclusively offer the first glimpse of it.

Satyenkumar customarily begins his design process with a character and for SS12 he looked to the British explorer, Percy Fawcett, who disappeared in 1925 during an expedition to uncover Z. "The collection was actually pre-visioned last Summer. It was inspired by David Grann's 'The Lost City of Zed'. I found this book over a year ago, just before I began to think about last summer and then of course I decided to take some time out. I still kept the book in my mind and still thought it relevant for this collection." Inspired by this tale, Satyen wanted to do something that was even more detailed than previous seasons, playing with military, adding more layers and pushing himself. "I have always done tailoring but wanted to move my aesthetic forward." SS12 certainly marks the return of an evolved Satyenkumar.

Building on the character of the lost explorer and having had the book playing on his creative mind for some time, Satyen turned to his obsession with murano glass which then led him to marbles. Everything clicked in to place. "The idea of losing your marbles and Percy Fawcett in the Amazon, going with the intent of exploring but then becoming trapped within the craziness, colour and tropics." The prints developed from this mental state and follow the process of losing your mind. "It is fantasy that is grounded in real clothing which dictated this idea of print, colour, detail and contrasting. A lot of my pieces tend not to be 100% one fabric but there's often a twist where two fabrications are used or a poppy colour has been changed to alter the silhouette for example a more military piece can be transformed by a flash of royal blue or coral." The collection takes the observer through the imagined phiscal and mental journey of Fawcett. The darker side of the collection was inspired by the idea of this character having to integrate in to his environment, this takes you in to the more subdued, black monochrome pieces. However, despite the strong literary influence this is not a theme collection. It is grounded in style and the beauty of menswear in general. Satyen teamed up with long term stylist Jason Hughes to help bring the collection to life in the look book. Rather than wax lyrical about the collection, allow me to do the polite thing and share it with you...

Exclusive SS12 look book shots courtesy of Satyenkumar.

As ever with Satyen, the SS12 collection showcases exquisite, timeless tailoring and modern hybrid classics in an assortment of fabrics that long to be touched and prints that daze and hypnotise. For me, the piece that provides the best summation of Satyenkumar as a designer are the tailored combats. "They are a tailored trouser with combat pockets. When you put them on, they feel nothing like a combat pant. They've gone to another level." However, the designer has challenged himself throughout but it is in the outerwear where we see just how far he has  pushed and evolved. The denim trench with twill, the belted suiting,  the multi pocketed bomber jacket in printed silk. Throughout, Satyen wants the looks to feel relaxed in places and restricted in others. The combination of these two elements is ever present.

Having bounced my way across the capital yesterday and seen countless SS12 collections as part of LFW, I have to confess that few left me as excited as this one. The return of Satyenkumar is a welcome one. Having been away from the spotlight for a couple of seasons now is Satyen's time to shine. The recovering menswear addict has a new hit. 

Details: Renewed vintage

Andrew Bunney wraps himself up in a vintage Vivienne Westwood scarf to add a splash of colour to his Menswear Day outfit.

Ozwald Boateng SS12

Last year, Ozwald Boateng closed the SS11 season with a blockbuster of a presentation. As an army of models marched across town, the Savile Row tailor provided an all singing and dancing sartorial extravaganza to help celebrate his twenty five years in the business and mark his return to the capital. Twelve months on and the designer chose a more reserved but no less impactful way to present his SS12 offering. Located in the House's flagship Savile Row store, Boateng let the clothes take centre stage whilst taking us on a journey to Kenya.

For SS12, Ozwald Boateng invites us to relive his personal experience on a family safari in Kenya. Rather than sit us down in front of a slideshow, the seasoned design talent offers a dazzling  reimagination of his experience. In a nod to an emotional journey, Boateng presents an assortment of weary travellers, pioneers and revolutionaries outfitted in looks that perfectly balance leisure and refinement. Inspired by the essentially masculine and functional dressing of the expedition, the collection   weaves through tradition and innovation whilst showcasing the House's iconic understanding of detail and sense of colour. Traditional pieces including the safari jacket and stone shirt are adapted to the practical needs and luxurious style of the modern explorer and reinvigorated with a popping spectrum of colour. There's very little khaki or stone on Boateng's safari and true to the house DNA, colour is explored and represented in innovative ways. Here, the vibrant palette reflects Boateng's vision, painting a picture of the vast African landscape. Terracota and orange hues recall images of the burnt red soil under foot, whilst rich greens inspire images of lush vegetation and deep indigo of the huge African sky. Take my hand and lets go on a Boateng safari...

A selection of my presentation shots.

After snapping away at Boateng's reimagined expedition, I caught up with the stalwart of British tailoring to hear more about the trip to Kenya that sparked the collection, his thoughts on the evolution of menswear in London and his impending film documentary...

SS: Now, the starting point for the collection is quite obviously safari but what was the trigger?

Ozwald Boateng: I went on safari last year with my kids to Kenya. It was actually the first holiday that I had been on with the kids without anyone else being around, no air support, no ground troops and it was quite something. It was an amazing experience. I had my own tent and they had their own and there was a definite sense of being alone and yet surrounded by wildlife. It was down to me to instill the confidence within them that they could do it. Then it was all about getting up before the break of dawn, driving in to the unknown and patiently waiting. I bought both of my sons cameras and we all snapped away. At the tail end of the trip, I took all of our images and made a little book of the whole experience. That was the backdrop of why. Also, there was a number of personal connections. Firstly spending time with my children, secondly going to Kenya which is a place I've always wanted to go to on Safari and also the realisation of the important role of colour within the whole concept of safari. The moment of realisation came when I was sitting there in my beige shorts and khaki top and I looked at my guide, a Masai warrior dressed in an amazing array of rich colours, from emerald green, vibrant turquoise blue to lion red and I was blown away. We are conditioned or told to dress in a certain way but there was our guide who is going to track down these animals and I realised that it was all nonsense, it means nothing. Why not have as much fun as the guide? So, I threw away the obvious colour palette and introduced all of these colours to create a new rule book. With the local backdrop, huge sky and the ever changing soil combined with an exciting colour palette, everything just pops. That was the driving force for the season.

SS: What else influenced your designs?

Ozwald Boateng: In terms of the concept itself, I looked at the practicalities of being on safari and the uniform that you wear. For example, the need for pocketed sleeveless zipped tops but pushed it that bit more with the colours used and with my background in tailoring introduced layers. Tailored thin lapels, shirt jacket hybrids and finding clever, intelligent uses of colour to alter shape and aesthetics without working too hard to get there. When I started as a creator I was always running so fast, it was so important to be at the forefront but with the benefit of experience, the real skill lies in being in control of your creativity in such a way that there is always a fascination in what could be missed. For example, I was preoccupied with moving the notch on the lapel and something so simple can be interesting. There is a beauty in subtlety. Just by looking at a shaped collar for instance, there are so many collars but to create a new one in just a single movement is hard but when you do it The Nile chiseled shirt seems familiar yet different and that is a great place to be, I always strive to create garments like that. I've always been known for my texture and fabric and that is a key identifying feature and dynamic of the brand but the real focus is, and always has been on the detail of the cut. When you really look at one of my garments that is where the depth really lies.

SS: Remarkably, last year marked your twenty fifth anniversary in menswear. How has London menswear changed in your time?

Ozwald Boateng: The simple way to define is that when I started, there was no platform to show your work and this has only changed recently. I had to show in Paris, Milan and New York before I had to show anything here as part of the official calendar. For me, that says everything. The fact that designers can say that they are part of the British fashion week experience is huge. From a purely stylistic point of view, British menswear has always been grounded in tailoring and I've certainly played my role in continuing this tradition but it is always evolving. What is interesting for me is that men are happy to be fashionable again, the younger men in particular are expressing themselves in such a way that I can only remember occurring in the 80s. There's a real confidence and enjoyment about dressing again. I have always been interested in the masculinity of fashion, how you can rework a traditionally feminine in such a way to transform to appear masculine. I have seen men wearing fashion in the street and even though it has an element of femininity it is worn in such a way that makes it looks more masculine. It really reminds of when I started out and that whole Buffalo movement and when the Face just started out, it was really a time when men could enjoy fashion and I finally feel we are back there again.

SS: What's next for Ozwald Boateng?

Ozwald Boateng: Firstly, I'm keen to open more stores. We are in a really strong place as a brand and now is the right time to expand. Also, we've got a documentary film coming out next years and that is going to be a joint release both here and in the States. It is a twelve year documentary film of my life and the response has been really positive. I've refocussed the business in recent years, moving away from the wholesale side and concentrating on the core. This was a tough decision because in one sense you are losing revenue but it was important for me to control the core elements of the brand, to have everything on my terms. It felt like a return in a way. Following the twenty five year anniversary, I felt as though I had come full circle. It is a hugely promising time and I'm excited.

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To supplement my eager shots from the presentation, I'd like to take another look at a few of the key looks. Thanks to the Jimmy Hansen shot look book we can...

SS12 Look book shots by Jimmy Hansen.

Unpicking the seams...H by Harris for GQ iPad Case

H by Harris for GQ iPad Case

To coincide with the launch of the the GQ iPad App,  H by Harris has collaborated with the gentleman's monthly to create a limited edition case. It is the perfect match up. Harris' personal need to find a stylish yet practical laptop case has continued to evolve into a thoroughly modern, yet understated luxury luggage brand which is designed and manufactured in the UK. As with all of the carefully crafted accessories that he produces, the exclusive case is an item that fuses function with design. Hand crafted from luxurious Navy hide leather, the interior features contrast grey suede lining, a card holder and space for documents. It turns my indifference towards the machine in to longing. I need an iPad just so I have an excuse to possess this case, to be able to stroke the quilted butter soft hide. However, before rushing off to the Apple store, we sat down with the designer to learn more about the collaboration and the item itself... 

A closer look at that butter soft Dallas leather

SS: How did the collaboration with GQ come about?

Harris Elliott: As with most good things, it started with a simple conversation, i was chatting to Robert and Vanessa at GQ about the different projects they were planning regarding the launch of the GQ App.... Then it became obvious that we should try and do something.

SS: What was the initial starting point for the item?

Harris Elliott: Luxury, protection and style. I wanted it to be one of those pieces that had it's own identity.

SS: Why attracted you to designing an ipad case?

Harris Elliott: GQ were launching their iPad app for their October issue. They had released a pilot issue in July which was amazing, everyone I showed the app to, couldn't believe that magazines had reached that stage of digital development. So it made sense to create a new luxe case to commemorate the launch.

SS: How did you go about stamping your take on this accessory?

Harris Elliott: One of the H by Harris trademarks is quilting, we used the quilt so people would know it was an H by Harris design.

SS: This season marks a shift in your quilted offering. We've all grown accustomed to seeing the diamond quilted (Q1) skin but now we are introduced to the striped quilting. Could you talk us through this introduction?

Harris Elliott: Since day one I had planned on introducing new styles and leather/fabric applications. My head is always two steps or a year ahead of reality. So AW11 became the time to introduce the stripe. Inspired by the shoulder padding on old motorcycle jackets, this style is very popular with boys, so it was the obvious choice for the GQ man.

SS: Could you talk us through some of the technical processes and people involved in making the case?

Harris Elliott: Robert Johnston (GQ features editor) and myself discussed the features that we felt an iPad case for a guy should have. So a space for cards and possibly a passport, seemed like a nice touch.

The leather we used is called Dallas, a butter soft hide with a slight creamy texture. Unlike nappas that H by Harris uses a lot, you can see and feel the grain of the leather, so the luxe look is in shape and form.

We worked with a sign writer, and an old school book binders to produce hand printed cards, with double foil blocking.

Of course there were the artisans that put it together....

A closer look at the personalisation

SS: Did you encounter any problems? How were they resolved?

Harris Elliott: The initial problem was time, we had two months to produce the cases from start to delivery...you normally have much longer than that from sketch to end user. We had a week to produce the initial prototype which was stressy as the first proto had to be almost spot on.... Thankfully it was.

SS: How would you describe the finished piece in your own words?

Harris Elliott: Contemporary luxury, I can always tell how good something is, when people instantly comment on a product, pick it up and caress it before being asked their opinion.

SS: I notice a bit of personalisation on some of the cases, is this a new way forward for H by Harris?

Harris Elliott: Definitely, it's something we've planned to introduce for a while. In the past we have created metal plates and embossed customers names into the leather labels for them. Scriptwriting takes it to the next level, it makes the item completely exclusive, because of the hand craft nature, therefore increasing the personal value that a customer places on their purchase.

We work with an amazing sign writer who hand paints typography for art installations. It's been a pleasure working with him.

The sign writer in action.

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A limited number of cases will soon be available on the wonderfully revamped H by Harris site. Each case can be hand personalised by the script writer.

Details... Classic with a twist

A closer look at Matthew Miller's take on the classic duffle coat as modelled by David Hopwood. The use of carabiners as fastenings is inspired. One of the jackets of the AW11 season and I'm kicking myself for not ordering one for myself.

Casely-Hayford for John Moore on my feet

Casely-Hayford's Seven Hole boot

Just over one year ago, I fell head over heels for Casely-Hayford's Paragon boot. Every once in a while you encounter a collection that encapsulates your dream wardrobe. Now, Casely-Hayford have a habit of producing such a collection and their A Darker Shade of Black for AW10, left me contemplating a life of crime to posses it all. Drawn to everything, I was particularly taken with the design duo's update on John Moore's most iconic boot; a twelve hole construction, goodyear welted toe strap boot. As it was lust at first sight, I should have snapped them up the moment my bleary eyes focused on them but after much dithering, the limited run production slipped through my wanting fingers. I thought all was lost and that my feet would never forgive me. However, for AW11 the father and son design team managed to create a new love, even stronger than the first. Having learnt my lesson, I snapped them up at the earliest opportunity. The addition of these boots to my ever growing shoe collection will provide a welcome respite for my well worn Lodger's Kudu brogued boots (stay tuned for a restoration post) that have pounded so many pavements over the years. I now have a new favourite and I'm excited to road test them for London Fashion Week...

The boots worn with trousers by Tim Soar and red socks from Uniqlo.

John Moore first designed the ‘toe strap’ boot with the Desborough factory in 1986, before changing manufacturer in 1987. The original design was a seven eyelet boot, Goodyear welted and with a Northampton appearance. It fused elements of punk/seditionaries, Skinhead styling and traditional British work boots. The Toe strap became a cult boot. Here it has been reimagined by Casely-Hayford who have used the same maker to update the boots for a new generation. The boots showcase the duality that drives the brand. With each of their six seasons, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. It is an ever intriguing house that encourages change whilst being grounded in tradition. Here, they combining styling from the punk and skinhead scene, with a traditional British work boot shape whilst many of the features from Moore’s original design remain.

The boots are seven hole construction with a goodyear welted heavy duty sole. Brogue detailing at the ankle, on the heel-strap, and around toe cap are accentuated by the protruding toe-strap, all of which give this iconic boot its nickname and a distinctive look.

Having declared my intent on adding them to my collection, the only difficulty lay in choosing between black or chestnut. They are equally beautifully. If I had my way I would double team them but life is not a fantasy. As you can see, after much deliberation and soul searching, I opted for black. I could not be happier with my choice which is a good thing because my work colleague Andrew, also seduced by the charms of the design chose chestnut. I'm pushing for visiting rights. I've found my (near identical) boot twin. Fame and fortune await...right...right?

Andrew sporting the boots in Chestnut

Making Mr Porter's acquaintance

The fanfare of a big launch leaves me cold. From an album release to the latest product drop, widespread hysteria and hype never fails to sour my interest. The unveiling of Mr Porter back in February had the same effect. However, back in the summer of last year I could not have been more excited and intrigued. I was one of the lucky few to listen to Natalie Massenet hint at what the online store might become as she danced and dazzled her way through her discussion with Imran Amed for Fashion Pioneers. With Net-a-Porter, Massenet has spent the last ten years luring women away from their favourite physical stores by offering something that’s a more attractive better mousetrap for the consumer. With Mr Porter, she was turning her attention to me(n). Throughout the hour long discussion my appetite for the future of online menswear retail was whet. Yet, as my hunger grew, so did the marketing and mass media frenzy. Suddenly, my appetite diminished. The early Spring launch arrived on time and of course I appreciated the reveal but I was not as wowed as I thought I could be. Now, the marriage of commerce and culture was instantly a happy one given that it was housed in such a sleek and inviting environment but something was missing. For me, the first season of products were a little too... expected. There were very few surprises or items to quicken the ticker in amongst the covetable staples. This is why I've not written anything about the site...until now.

Since Mr Porter's inception, Massenet has amassed something of a dream team. The staff and contributors list reads like a who's who of British menswear journalism and retail. The buying team is particularly strong and as the second season of products begin to appear online they are undoubtedly flexing in front of an admiring audience, myself included. A diverse mix of over forty brands have been added to the list of designers. Intrigued, I visited the well groomed Westfield office and met with Mr Porter's Buying Director, Toby Bateman. Over a cup of coffee, I listened as Bateman enthusiastically discussed AW11. As he bounced from find to find, detailing what it was that precisely caught the eye for his first full buying season, the personality of Mr Porter revealed itself. Up to this point, I had considered the site to be a touch dull and one dimensional but Bateman's excitement was infectious, more than that though, it was justified. As the season welcomes Gilded Age, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Gant and most interestingly, J. Crew, Oliver Spencer and Hentsch Man, the contemporary and more causal offering has been beefed up quite remarkably. Furthermore, with the addition of impressive Parisen debuts from Ami and Monsieur Lacenaire and renowned cashmere from Loro Piana, I've instantly had a few knitwear surprises. Previously Mr Porter has appeared a little too stiff for my tastes but it has now evolved in to something of a sartorial chameleon. It no longer appeals to one man but many.

Now, I wish I could share my chat with you all but the gremlins that live inside the Voice Memo application on my iphone have decided to play mean. However, undeterred by technical difficulties, I feel that the below selection of look book shots will prove just as persuasive in raising your excitement for Mr Porter's AW11 offering...      

I especially like Raf Simons' duffle coats and fair isle knits.

Super sleek Givenchy

Two looks from Ami. 
As Ami, Alexandre Mattiussi aims to produce an effortless wardrobe of stylish, wearable clothes. He looks to have achieved it on his very first attempt.

Combining traditional standards of production with a contemporary aesthetic and attitude, Kitsuné collections have a timeless elegance about them. This cable knit shawl cardigan is simply beautiful.

Oh Monsieur Lacenaire...
One of my favourite discoveries of the season. I have detailed my love of this item already.

These brightly coloured cords from blog favourite Hentsch Man will surely brighten any grey Autumn day.

Plaid wool ties from Alexander Olch
AW11 Look book shots courtesy of Mr Porter.

After a few months of suspicious glances across the Internet, I'm pleased to have finally introduced myself to Mr Porter. One season on after making its eagerly awaited big reveal, the online retailing powerhouse steps away from the fanfare and as it is caught by the blogging spotlight, looks quite dashing indeed. Next time I visit the Westfield office I'm bringing my tooth brush and moving in.

Menswear Day Preview... Shaun Samson SS12

Shaun Samson's SS12 lineup

In precisely one weeks time we will be half way through a packed Menswear Day schedule. We would have Asd been amazed by Anderson, seduced by Shannon, dazzled by Dalton and moved by MAN. As we countdown to the big day, it is the latter that is causing our blogging pulse to race. Since its inception and thanks to the support and sponsorship of Topman and Fashion East, MAN has created a whole new momentum in the London menswear scene. Season after season, it grows in profile and importance but the SS12 lineup marks an energised beginning. The talent showcase is all about heralding what’s new in menswear but this lineup is one of the most exciting to date. Martine Rose shows for the third time and is joined by two newcomers, Matthew Miller and Shaun Samson. Now, regular readers will know that Miller is no newbie in our eyes. His work has impressed us for a number of years now and after capturing the collective imagination with his AW11 presentation, his addition to the show lineup marks a much deserved step forward for the design talent. Samson on the other hand is a recent discovery. 

Having stood out with his seamless MA collection of harmoniously fused knits and plaids earlier this year, we met up the California born graduate to learn more about his needle punch felting technique. As we were talked through the design process of his AW11 collection, we could not help ourselves from peeking at what he had in store for us on Menswear Day. Here, we take a look at how colourful Mexican blankets sparked a renewed love affair with his homeland and accompany his words with a few studio shots....

"I was initially really attracted to these Mexican blankets. They are everywhere in California. However, it wasn't until I moved here and away from them for a couple of years before returning that I saw them in a new light. I'd never think to put these colours together but for some reason they work.  They are made in the traditional way by Mexicans and use whatever yarns they have at that time. No two blankets are the same which is great except for when it comes to production but I'll figure it out. The blankets are so nice themselves that I can't over design the garment."

Shaun Samson on the starting point for the collection and the confident use of colour in the blankets.

" From the blankets, I reminisced about growing up in California; the surfers, the grunge and the gangster rap movement."
Shaun Samson on the evolution of design influences from the blankets.

"I'm also experimenting with one off pieces that I won't produce, mixing vintage garments and pushing the aesthetic that bit more"
Shaun Samson hinting at what we can expect to see on Menswear Day
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