My desire to own bespoke clothing is well documented on the blog. In a previous post I shared my statement of intent of entering the bespoke world; "In two years or so I want to walk away from Savile Row after my final fitting knowing that my suit is almost ready for me..." I have dedicated various posts to this beautiful craft and my dedicated savings fund has been progressing (slowly but for the most part in the right direction) but despite my admiration towards the fine fellows of Savile Row I've felt I wasn't quite ready to enter their world. I am almost there and have spent the last few years excitedly waiting and reading up on the subject. What is obvious to me is that a lot of people use the terms "bespoke" and "made-to-measure" interchangeably. They are mistaken. In seventeenth century England, 'bespoke' was a term for tailored clothing made at a customer's behest, with the customer's surname written on the actual fabric, hence the fabric 'was spoken for'. Hence a tailor who makes your clothes individually, to your specific personal requirements, is called 'bespoke'. For those of you who like me, aren't quite ready for bespoke, one new label might be of interest...step forward Bespoken...
Under the tutelage of Turnbull & Asser, Bespoken was born not to make made-to-measure clothes tailored to the individual but to honour the heritage of tailoring traditions, paying great attention to fabrics, details and applying those traditions to a modern fit and contemporary styling. Turnbell & Asser is old school and has maintained a loyal following and discrete growth. In fact, T&A have supplied the shirts to James Bond, to whoever might be playing our favourite womanising spy. Production has remained British. The bespoke shirts are still made in Jermyn Street and ready to wear is manufactured in Gloucester. T&A brothers, James, Sam and Liam Fayed partnered with family friends Paulo and Carlos Goncalves to create Bespoken, a line of blazers, shirts and knits which offer a fresh take on historic luxury. "A young, scruffy haired lad who may enjoy a whisky and believes in classics of quality and style" Sam fayed. "This is what the son of a Turnbull & Asser customer would wear." (Oh, If only I were the son of a T&A customer...just think of the shirts I could inherit!)
Bespoken's signature look consists of classic shirts and jackets with a twist. The blazers are shorter and more form fitting, with a subtle red detail on every collar and lapel. The shirts, too, are fitted and mod influenced, with wrap around collars. Everything is handmade and in a limited edition, embroidered with a number from 1 to 100. "The autumn/winter '09 collection draws inspiration from the post-war fashion movement in Britain that occurred after the '50s," explains Sammy, the collection's main designer. "The pieces are more functional and utilitarian and are made from more textured and raw fabrics. The likes of Ian Curtis, Factory Records and northern England are some of the influential images that inspired the story behind this collection."
The result is an increased relevance and a nod to the brand's adaptability. This new collection is markedly different from previous designs, but remains cohesive and continuous with Bespoken's sophisticated aesthetic. The offspring of Turnbull & Asser have carried the torch, and made classic English traditionalism into something interesting, fresh and new...all things I'm certainly ready for right now, whilst I'm waiting for the bespoke fund to reach the required level...
Bespoken white shirt worn with cardigan by Omar Kashoura, trousers by Ted Baker, socks from Uniqlo and black suede and leather lace ups by b store.
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