In discussion: Time Travelling Style II

Fashion is ever changing. Existing materials, cuts and silhouettes are remade, altered, evolved to create something new. The past tends to play a fundamental role in the future. Designers are among the most remarkable cultural historians, tirelessly renewing a fading inheritance,pushing fashion on. A measured glance back in order to go forward. However, when it comes to writing about fashion there is often a tendency to look too deeply at the crystal ball.There is an unquenchable thirst for the new. An impatient demand for the yet unmade. To counter this we asked a few of our favourite menswear personalities to wear Bernard's watch. Here a few of our friends proclaim their favourite moments of style...

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If you could go back in time and experience any
moment in style, what would it be?

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I want to go back to the sixties:
- to crash glamorous Beverly Hills house parties
- to see actual Teddy Boys and skinheads on the streets of London
-to meet my young parents in Manila in custom-tailored bellbottom suits and homemade lace dresses

The Dandy Project, Blogger.

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"The moment I would most like to visit style-wise would have to be London during the Regency period. As far as tailoring and menswear history is concerned I suppose that was the time that everything was happening. Fashion was truly being explored and young aristocrats were creating a new attitude towards dress. I would love to have been able to see Beau Brummell in action around Mayfair and at parties with the Prince Regent."

Dapper Kid, Blogger.

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"If I could travel back to any style time, which I suppose is just any time full stop, I'd choose 1989. Then I would find 13 year-old Thomas and give him a sound thrashing. My god, what was I thinking? But if that would disrupt the space/time continuum too much, I'd choose the 1920's. The 60's were amazing but a little on the perfect side. In the 20's a man could wear a crazy suit and look completely normal."

The Sunday Best, Blogger.

__________

"How about simply living in the moment? I understand all art references the past (yes I'm calling some clothing 'art'). However, I'm bored witless of this revisionist attitude to clothing. Why not shake things up? This week I'm feeling more and more like I want to smash the system and start a revolution and my clothing will reflect this. Punk isn't a clothing style but an attitude. I spent a few days at one of worlds biggest cultural events last year and no-one confronted or assaulted my senses more than a group of kids taking French ye-ye music and turning it on it's head. Now that's punk. Lead not follow."

Daniel Jenkins, Retailer focusing solely upon British fashion talent.

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How about you? Have you got an era that you look back on fondly or perhaps you've dreamt about experiencing for yourself ever since you flipped through an old family photo album. Maybe your moment will come. Tell us all about it below.

Narielwalla's New Dandies

I first encountered the work of Hormazd Narielwalla gracing the walls of "A Fairytale About Fashion", an exhibition which ran during the festive season 0f 2008 at the EXIT gallery. Narielwalla's Dead Man’s Patterns was a design story that excited my sartorial imagination and I have kept a close on his artistic development ever since. Just last week, the current LCF PhD student informed me of the various recent advancements that have helped propel his work to a wider audience. These include a new website, fresh illustrative undertakings, an exhibition and another book. Over the coming months I will no doubt fill you in on every one of these nuggets of news but for now, I'd just like to share another body of his work, Trams. As soon as I visited his new site my eye was drawn to this series of artworks. Through a combination of photography, his own sketches and digital composition collages, this series is yet another playful collection of artwork that truly excites. The driving concept for this body of work is to capture a new-age dandy stuck between the past and the present. All the while questioning how a man should dress. These characters have a dandy-esque approach to life, spotless, immaculate and seemingly effortlessly stylish...

As you should all know by now, the artists work originates from sets of bespoke patterns. These patterns have recorded a history of intimate dialogues of customer measurements and fittings over a lifetime but no longer have any practical use to the cutter and are often discarded. Narielwalla takes these fragile pieces of parchment out of their original context and breathes fresh life in to them. The creases and careful folds, finely traced pencil marks and measurements are reimagined. The patterns are reinterpreted and resurrected. In Trams, Narielwalla has once again foraged his way through tailoring archives and shaken a heady cocktail of visual methods to narrate untold stories. I'm left contemplating the modern dandy.

The return of Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

hat better way to start your Friday than to receive a fright from Sibling before the facilitation of further excitement with the news of the return of Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis for AW10. What more, the collection is soon to hit shop floors and has doubled in size from its preceding SS10 range. The sophomore collection of this intriguing collaboration once again celebrates true craftsmanship and home grown British manufacturing. With collaborations with remote mills in Yorkshire, tartan experts in Selkirk and respected bag maker Chapman to name but a few, the collection once again brings seemingly specialist products to a wider audience without losing any of the integrity that make their products special. The High Street just got that bit more interesting...

"Our Aw10 collection draws influence from a celebrated group of 20th century British artists, a number of whom were members of the famous St Ives Artist Colony set up in 1928. Our clothes have inherited the strong spirit of this movement and adopted the sculptor Henry Moore's idea of continuity and endurance, words which embody the ethos of this project"

Joe Casely Hayford

The debut thirty piece capsule collection for SS10 celebrated the best of authentic British design while providing a complete wardrobe, encompassing everything from jackets to shoes. It was, not surprisingly, extremely well received. AW10 sees Casely-Hayford build upon this concept of collaboration with the finest British manufacturers to crate a range of future classic designs. Following the success of last season's partnership with Barbour, the new collection includes a winter version of the extremely popular Bezique semi tailored blazer (which I of course nabbed for myself last season), and the introduction of a unique waxed cotton and Melton padded Pea Coat (as shown above). Simply stunning. With over fifty pieces in the collection and prices ranging from £60 to £400 ther really is something for every man.


The new collection sees the introduction of two key seasonal overcoats, the Pallas and the Paris. Both are derived from the classic Chesterfield Topcoat. Both are reinventions of a stalwart of a true Englishman's wardrobe. The Pallas is crafted from coarse Marling and Evans Melange tweed and has a lightweight quilted body, giving it an otherwise formal topcoat a unique and contemporary sporty twist. Meanwhile, the Paris continues the Chesterfield theme but includes new features including dropped shoulders and a matching lightweight, padded zip out gilet. The cloth has been exclusively developed and woven by the Abraham Moon mill in Yorkshire. If all that wasn't exciting enough, the season sees Joe Casely-Hayford launch his first exclusively crafted suit for the High Street. Utilising a transeasonal super 130s Savile Clifford travel worsted cloth the suit will be something every man should have hanging in his wardrobe.

The increased collection size has enabled Casely-Hayford to expand the range of accessories on offer to include two new satchels developed with the respected bag maker Chapman, who is one of only a handful heritage luggage manufacturers still producing entirely in the UK. Through joining forces with the tartan experts Lochcarron of Selkirk, Casely-Hayford has designed two new bold check lambswool and cashmere mix scarves. Regular readers will remember the effect that last seasons Pukk leather brogues had on me. Made by Cheaney, the beautiful brogues captured my imagination the moment I saw them, this seasons incarnation have had the same affect on me. The Mentor shoe, a new take on the classic Oxford, uses sophisticated design elements including an integral punched toe cap and a chamfered Goodyear Welted sole to make a shoe both wonderfully stylish yet practical. The Mentor is from Cheaney and is once again produced using traditional methods by Northampton craftsmen. Earlier this week I was fortunate enough to be invited to their Desborough factory to watch the final batch of shoes being crafted. It was an amazing experience and I'll be posting an in depth feature on the processes involved early next week. Keep your eyes peeled!

Sibling's Comic Horror Shoot

For Aw10 Sibling took us on a creepy journey for their fourth collection. Last February, deep inside Somerset House's East Wing we were led down the staircase, round the corner and through the door and in to Dr Frankenstein’s laboratory and into a world of fright and fear. Creative agency This is Real Art worked with Sibling to publicise this ‘Comic Horror’ collection. The agency came up with the idea of photographing scared-looking models wearing the clothes. They wanted to capture moments of genuine expressions of fear. Of course, the best way to do this is to really scare the models.

Working with the production company COY! and photographer Sean de Sparengo, an eerie environment was created, using total darkness and a bespoke fright inducing soundtrack. The models were led into the studio, unable to see a thing and made to stand on a spot for several minutes. They were then scared using an incredibly loud horror noise. Simultaneously, the photographs were taken and the look book created.



The video brings backs haunting memories. A few months ago now, I went to Ghost Stories, a truly terrifying theatrical experience written and directed by The League of Gentlemen's master of the macabre, Jeremy Dyson, and Andy Nyman, co-creator and director of Derren Brown's television and stage shows and star of Dead Set and Severance. Had there been a video camera catching my squeals and moments of skin jumping, the evidence would undoubtedly have looked remarkably similar to the models here. I both shudder and smile at the thought and share each models pain.

With each season the design trio combine the wonderful craft of knitwear with an added sense of humour. In fact, when we interviewed them earlier this year they conceded that "Sibling is all about humour in a very English way that may come across as being a bit silly at times." This video certainly encapsulates just that. I'm looking forward to seeing what the design trio create next. Roll on next month and Menswear Day!

Late Summer Holiday

Image from Things Organised Neatly

There is still time for a summer holiday, real or imaginery. With fashion month and the new season fast approaching we thought we'd take a little breather for a few days. Normal service will resume next week. Happy holidays.

E. Tautz goes postal for a new digital age

Patrick Grant has decided to bring a dash of handcrafted elegance to his soon to be relaunched digital space. This month E. Tautz will help revive the lost art of considered communication and Nowness has the exclusive. The big idea is to get people writing and thinking and making and engaging in physical, tactile correspondence again. To get the ball rolling Grant has asked a select ggroup of sartorial fellows who have something to say on the subject of men and style to come up with a postcard or two. The postcards will be handmade and aim to guide the reader in the direction of a more stylish and informed life. They will feature quotations, short anecdotes, biographical notes, illustrations and simple tips. E. Tautz is a label which offers simple tailoring with a little something extra, a bit of pomp, colour, a sense of humour. This project captures the true spirit of the house wonderfully. Last week, Grant sent through a selection of entries to help me visualise how it all might look. The postcards channel the quirky sense of Englishness that is a fundamental facet of the relaunched sporting and military tailors quite brilliantly...

Ultimately, the plan is to create a postcard each week which friends of E Tautz can sign up to receive by email. These can then be printed and send to their nearest and dearest. Furthermore, once in full swing, Grant is inviting absolutely anyone who wishes to send their own postcards postcards to E. Tautz's Savile Row base and if liked they will post them on to the site. Now the weekend is upon us, what better time to get a little crafty? When was the last time you picked up a pen and paper and wrote a note? It is a lovely feeling. Try it. For inspiration head over to Nowness where you can amuse yourself with additional entries and devour nuggets of sartorial wisdom from Patrick Grant himself.

Style Stalking... Imelda Matt

You might think that the phrase 'style stalking' is an exaggeration, but this time you'd be wrong. Ever since we laid eyes on Imelda Matt in a gold suit we knew we just had to get him to do a style diary for us. After months (no, really) of chasing, cajoling and downright begging, he agreed. For those of you who don't know him (shame on you!), here's a little background: since unleashing Her Royal Highness Imelda the Despotic Queen of Shoes on an unsuspecting blogosphere more than four years ago, his sharp tongued take on the wonderful world of women's shoes has brought many a smile to our faces. It has been a firm favourite in our blogroll for as long as we can remember. More recently he launched the aesthetically pleasing Style Tyrant, a street style blog that focuses on the men of Melbourne. Just check out this guy if you need convincing!

Here's what Matt has to say for himself about his style diary:

“Gurrl! Haz you been tokin’ on the crackpipe?” was the Despotic Queen/Style Tyrants response when Eliza asked if I’d consider doing a style diary!

Over the course of the last four years (during which time I’ve been blogging full-time) my bank balance and thus my wardrobe has been on life support.

Blame the GFC. Blame blogging. But for whatever reason, two and half years ago and in dire need of new threads, I started ‘shopping my wardrobe’, hence in lookin’ at my old rags?

But revisiting my purchases of yesteryear with older (albeit wiser) eyes has been a fascinating exercise. Aside for a few key pieces (Orri Henrrison and Subfusco) approximately 90% what I wear was bought during my 20’s.

Obviously, to accommodate my shifting taste my old rags have given a spit and polish. However, for as cash strapped blogger from the 3rd World I’m kinda impressed with how those early buys have stood the test of time.

These photographs are not a study of sartorial chicanery - what you see, is what you get!

The wait was well worth it though, we are absolutely delighted with the images. When the diary dropped in to our inbox the collective squeal of excitement deafened neighbours. No doubt this style diary will brighten up your weekend...

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Day One - Double Denim

Denim jacket is vintage JAG, Shirt from H&M, the jeans are ‘ready for the bin’ and shoes are vintage Hutton’s Playboy creepers

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Day Two - Subfusco

Entire outfit (including the Patrick Bateman vinyl blazer) from Subfusco, shoes by Pierre Hardy

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Day Three - Orri

Jacket and pants by Orri Henrisson, shirt from Saint Augustine Academy and boots picked up in Tokyo

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Day Four - Armani

Trousers are Giorgio Armani S/S 96, belt is Dolce & Gabanna circa 02, knit Arthur Gallan

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Day Five - Helmut

Jacket is Helmut Lang ‘98, trousers are Dolce & Gabanna S/S ‘97 and the shoes are by Max Kibardin

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Day Six - Gucci Belt

Gucci Belt – Jacket by Orri Hennrisson, vintage trousers, belt by Gucci S/S 97, shoes from Kenneth Cole and watch by Nixon

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Day Seven - Burberry

Pants from Burberry, Shirt by RESTERÖDS, Cardigan from Tiger House (Japan), Shoes from ZARA, vintage belt and rings by ATAT

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Saturday Night and Sunday Morning

Every once in a while we receive an email to our Style Salvage inbox that brightens up our day. As you can imagine our email account is crammed full with all kinds of weird and wonderful press releases but there was one afternoon last week where we received two wide smile inducing correspondence from readers. One of which came from Louis Hunter who opened my eyes to a style rich film in Saturday Night and Sunday Morning...

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Hi Steve,

I'm a big fan of the blog and always look forward to the next post. Like you, I to am longing for autumn to commence as I do every year at around this time. The need to reintroduce those garments that have been in hibernation over the summer months is growing ever stronger. In response to your post on Gainsbourg a personal favorite film of mine is 'Saturday night and Sunday Morning'. I'm not sure of your already aware of it but if your ever in need of nostalgic trip to Northern England then this is perfect film especially in preparation for the cooler months ahead. The clothes of Arthur Seaton, played by Albert Finney are spot on throughout and Shirley Anne Field is not exactly hard on the eyes. I just thought I would share this with you as it is something which I very much enjoyed. Keep up the blogging as it brings us all much enjoyment,

Yours Sincerely,

L Hunter.

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Now, I had a vague idea that I might have watched Saturday Night and Sunday Morning during an almost forgotten wet afternoon but I couldn't be sure. Intrigued by the email, I managed to get my hands on a copy of the film, made myself some popcorn and sat down to a classic piece of 60s filmography. The film is based on Silitoe's novel in which he focuses on the life of Arthur Seaton, a young man who endures working in a factory all week so that he can afford to drink and chase women on Saturday evening.

"I'm out for a good time - all the rest is propaganda!"

Arthur Seaton

In his first starring role, Albert Finney gained international acclaim for his impressive portrayal of the rebellious factory worker. The sights and sounds of industrial Nottingham resonate with a grimy thud as Arthur Seaton works his tedious factory job. Through strong ale, women and practical jokes, he vents his frustrations against the establishments of work and marriage until his reckless ways lead him to a night that changes his life...

Clothes play a signficant role in highlighting the key themes of the film. Every Friday Seaton quickly escapes from work wearing his grubby overalls and plaid shirt before transforming in to a gentleman of the night. Seaton might still live at home with his parents in a tiny room but his wardrobe is bursting with outerwear, well cut tailoring and tie options. While offering a nostalgic trip of working class life in Northern England the Midlands the film showcases a wardrobe that is ideal for the fast approaching cooler season ahead.

Falling for Casely-Hayford's Paragon

Eyes still fixated on Casely-Hayford's AW10 collection, A Darker Shade of Black.

Every once in a while you encounter a collection that encapsulates your dream wardrobe. Casely-Hayford's A Darker Shade of Black left me contemplating a life of crime or black market organ dealing to enable it to hang in my flat. For AW10, the design duo reassessed ideas of masculinity, drawing influence from military uniforms and revisiting the darkened sensibility of their AFRO PUNK. The collection builds on their signature, sportswear and tailoring mix by adding military influences. The Afro Punk is now encased in armour. The father and son design duo have undoubtedly built on the successes demonstrated in their first three offerings with a saliva inducing fourth collection. Although unable to currently afford the collection I was able to call in a few pieces for a recent shoot with a Japanese magazine (more on this shortly) where I fell in love with the collection all over again. The 12 hole Paragon boots were the real focus of my affections then and now. It must be love.

Two looks featuring the Paragon boots.

The moment I slipped my feet inside of them I sensed something of a transformation. Having been seduced by the boots undeniable charms and given the giant menswear geek that I am, I needed to find out more about them.

A closer look at the focus of my affections. The 12 hole boot in all its glory.

'What did you find out?' I hear you cry. Well...these military inspired 12 hole boots are in fact a collaboration with the John Moore brand. For those of you who don't know, John Moore was one of the great originals of British design who sadly died prematurely in 1989. Although his influence is still felt today, I have to confess to knowing very little about the man so I think it best to allow Joe Casely-Hayford to elaborate on how the collaboration came to be...

"As well as working with Vivienne Westwood, under his own label Moore created some of the seminal shoe designs of the 80s. Over two decades before Dalston became the focal point for artists and designers that it is today, John Moore opened ‘The House of Beauty and Culture’ on Stamford Road in Dalston Junction. It quickly developed into one of those generation defining cult locations, attracting London's underground youth culture. The House of Beauty and Culture was built around the John Moore shoe collection, but became etched into fashion history because it brought together a group of the most exciting and inspiring creators under one roof - the legendary Judy Blame, knitwear designer Richard Torry, an unsung genius, hatter Fiona Bowen, and of course the great John Flett who before his untimely death was often compared to John Galliano. Flett lived in a flat on Kingsland Road opposite the shop, and was just beginning to make a name as a visionary cutter and designer.

The House of Beauty and Culture had a distinctive style, with a metal grille on its windows and a floor surface which was studded with coins from around the world. Moore’s shoes sat very comfortably in this setting; they could have a heavy serrated sole, squared off toes or ribbon laces, giving the feeling they belonged to a 20th Century Artful Dodger. This was a great time for shoe design. Lawler and Duffy had just left Cordwainers and after designing the footwear for the infamous John Galliano graduation collection they began to collaborate on Joe Casely-Hayford collections. The footwear Lawler Duffy and John Moore created had a very English look to it; made by Desborough with a hard industrial appearance."

A pair of John Moore toe strap boots seen at Vintage of Goodwood...alas they were two sizes too small.

Now, Moore first designed the ‘toe strap’ boot with the Desborough factory in 1986, before changing manufacturer in 1987. The original design was a seven eyelet boot, Goodyear welted and with a Northampton appearance. It fused elements of punk/seditionaries, Skinhead styling and traditional British work boots. The Toe strap became a cult boot and is today being produced for Casely-Hayford by the same maker, six years after Joe Casely-Hayford was originally approached by the company to update the boots for a new generation. Quite a tale and quite a boot.

Made as a limited run, the boots can be found exclusively at Dover Street Market and Hostem in London.