Girls who are boys who like boys to be girls

Oh I was quite the Blur fan as a youth. Marjan Pejoski is known for pushing gender boundaries in his collections and this collection is no different, however I've not been too drawn to the pieces until now. These looks are inspiring and most importantly wearable. Susie recently posted about this collection but I wanted to talk again about the menswear on offer. Yes the collection is pretty androgynous but I don't want to be sharing any of these pieces with her!

The AW/08 collection is something for guys and girls to swap, interchange and mix up in textures and shapes...

The beauty is (as always with good menswear) all in the cut and the drape. With a simple monochrome palette (although my favourite piece is the pistachio jacket), Pejoski is pushing menswear in ways other than colour. He is not afraid to play with the female silhouette, reforming it for the male, at times with spectacular results, at others interesting. Although it is stifling hot in London at the moment, I have to admit I am thinking about my next winter coat and Pejoski's outerwear is inspiring.

Picture postcard: I think holidays may have made me crazy

Heed these wise words, Steve, heed them well.

This picture actually hurts my brain a little. Part of me thinks that this is utterly amazing- it's a freaking hat made of his own hair after all! Look at how much effort must have gone into it! Another part of me thinks 'good grief, that's a lot of effort to make hat hair'.

Still, like it or not, at least it's a bit different. Doing the best you can with what you've got (going by the writing, rather than the picture now) is always to be commended... surely? So the question is: if you could grow a fro hat, would you?

Now this dude has the right attitude. To think I used to look at Will Smith in the Fresh Prince and be amazed...that was nothing compared to this. We need people like him over the coming weeks as we look to explore the limits of blogging. Pure dedication to the cause...persistent, imaginative and crazy (we all need that important mix of crazy).

Call to arms

Greetings men's fashion bloggers!

This is not strictly speaking a men's fashion post, merely an idea we've been bandying about. There seem to be so few of us out there that we want to get a bit of unity going- strength in numbers! We want to try an experiment (a mass collaboration if you will), but we need your help. If you are interested in taking part, people drop us a line (our email address can be found on the right hand side) and we'll let you know what we're thinking of. I'm not trying to be deliberately mysterious, I've just not firmed up the details yet.

Many thanks

EJ and Steve

Wishing for my Summer Holiday...whilst going back to work

Back to School with Head Porter

It is unbearably hot in London (for me anyway) at the moment and to make matters worse the body clock of the child in me is going crazy...I should not be dreading the fact that tomorrow morning I have to get on a cramped, smelly, disgusting tube and commute into work. Tomorrow should be the start of my six week summer holiday, the beginning of many an adventure...in the park, on the beach...to far off distant lands (like Bournemouth)...but no, instead I have to come to terms with being a grown man and off to work I must go. To make my life a little more like how I yearn for it to be I might just have to experiment with the whole 'back to school' drive. The new Head Porter "Lesson" collection has arrived in the Honeyee Store, consisting of bags, backpacks, pouches and all things school related such as pen cases and folders, this would certainly make my work desk more appealing...now all I need to do is find my beloved Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles lunchbox.

Write it, get it, paste it, save it,

I love the Internet. There I said it. It's out there. I have to admit though that this wasn't always the case, there used to be a time where it could get in the way of what I called the 'real world' (EJ can vouch for this) but now I've come to accept that there is no 'real' world or 'virtual' world, everything is in one big pot. The downside of all this is that I have (like you no doubt as you are reading this after all) become an addict of stimulation in both written and visual form. There was a time when monthly, quarterly and even bi annual magazines used to be enough. Of course I would go into the best newsagent in town and have to ask the owner about when an issue was coming out, annoyingly the hell out of them but I like to think that they probably miss me now (NB - I still do this but there are just so many great magazine stores in London that I no longer have a local store to befriend). The Internet has preyed on my slight magazine weakness to make me a fully fledged addict. I regularly walk into stores now preying that for some reason the new issue of Fantastic Man would have been published months early, 10 Man, HE, Squint Homme and Monocle woud all be there waiting for me and who knows maybe even Vogue Hommes might have found there way...alas normally I walk out empty handed and frustrated. Now however, m frustration doesn't last that long because I can go home and access so much online, which leads me to my point (I did actually have one)...I stumble across so many great blogs everyday...I read somewhere that every second two blogs are created which is awesome (Just to balance the scales I would add my own stat about how every second at least one blog writer gets bored and stops). Yesterday, I came across thenonplace.

I love the simplicity of it all. A font and layout similar to that of Fantastic Man, images are accompanied by a brief paragraph of text. For example the entry above is accompanied with the following text: Another summer sale buy, I have gone a little over board of late! Visvim Nez shirt from last spring summer lovely quality exactly as expected and a great fit.

It is something I can look at work to relieve my eyes from spreadsheets and delivery reports. According to the archive the blog has been going since June 2007 which is the same month that myself and EJ decided to write our own after talking about it for months. The blogger is Stephen Mann, a stylist based in London. who regularly contributes to Arena and Qvest as well as working with designer Aitor Throup. Thankyou internet.

When I grow up...

Image taken from i-D (the Artisan issue - which is an extremely good issue for menswear)

I've discussed my recently developed love for architecture (I would love to be an architect when I grow up), this fascination with me being me naturally includes how the architect styles himself. Ole Scheeren is the German architect blowing people's minds with his gravity defying design for China's Central Television Headquarters and is featured in the latest issue of i-D (the Artisan issue - which has a great deal of interesting menswear). Ole's interviewer for the piece gives him the following introduction..."Handsome, talented and well dressed, Ole is as much a hit amongst the ladies as his buildings are revered on streets across the world"...this might be a tad shoddy but it covers the main points and the grainy image shows that the man can dress - I'm not a fan of unbuttoned shirts but this artisan pulls it off with ease.

His CCTV Building has been described as two drunken, upside-down Ls leaning against each other for support and has been compared to a man adjusting a pair of ill fitting trousers, it is certainly one the world’s most ambitious architectural challenges which looks to have worked..

We look on as man adjusts his ill fitting trousers

On the CCTV Tower Scheeren remarks "At bus stops, in bars and on the street, people had started to speculate what this building was going to be and to recognise that architecture could possibly do something completely different to what they thought it was. It had started to capture the public mind, and in that sense made a contribution to the life of the city before its completion." One day I will capture the public mind. In the meantime I will dress the part.

The layered cardigan

Image courtesy of Diane Pernet

I came across this image EK Thongprasert (winner of ITS 6) on ashadedviewonfashion and I love the top half of his outfit. I have discussed my desire to layer two cardigans as soon as the weather begins to cool (I'm currently fast forwarding summer in my mind) and this cardigan would be absolutely perfect to realise the vision I have...however the sun is still shining (ish) and the type of layering I have in mind is out of the question so why not wear it as Thongprasert has. I want that tie.

The story of a tailor

Martin the Tailor from Ed David on Vimeo.

Here is the perfect video for a Sunday evening. This is the story of Martin Greenfield, a man who went from working in a workroom in a concentration camp in Germany to the owner of a garment factory and a tailor to the stars. Greenfield talks about how he crafts a suit for a person, how everyone is a “perfect person” belly or no belly...because we’re all different and unique. A nice thought before bed. Good night.

Modular Anatomy - My past and present collide

I grew up in a small seaside town on the South East coast of England and for many years it was my home. As a youth I would fit in quite seamlessly with my surroundings but there were moments when my sartorial choices caused a few disagreements with my peers - I must say looking back, I have no idea why some of the guys took offence to what I wore...the smallest of details could spark them off, a stripey jumper is an example which had a few colours in it would occassionally cause a remark on my 'sexuality'. Strange times indeed but they were never less than interesting. So what were my peers wearing if it wasn't stripey jumpers I hear you ask? The majority liked there labels. The uniform of choice included Lacoste polo shirts, Levis, Reebok classics and Stone Island jumpers and jackets, which were all worn with beaming pride and exuding masculinity. Time hasn't changed this uniform too much over the years but how I dress certainly has - if they thought I was a little strange back then, they certainly would now. Anyway, I've rambled on for too long about my childhood but hopefully I've set a scene of slot machines, ice creams, garage music and pearly white trainers.

When I read about Aitor Throup's collaboration with Stone Island I couldn't help but think that my two worlds have collided in some way. The project involves the construction of an ostensibly traditional down jacket pieced together in small parts using separate, individually filled cushion segments. Traditionally this is exactly the type of jacket which was worn by my friends and aggressors, now reinterpreted by one of my favourite young fashion designers. Throup's design philosophy starts with the human form and allows the garment to evolve organically, taking a building-block approach as opposed to a more conventional construction using sleeves, armholes and body panels.

Despite Throup's involvement I will not be buying this collection as it's just not my style (unless I am forced to battle the elements..which is unlikely)...I wonder if I'll be seeing any of it on the backs of my old friends.

Dream brothers

Way back in September last year we were singing Topman's praises, so when Topman sent us through the information about their latest Lens collection, we got a bit excited. When we saw the photos the excitement was justified.

Here's their schpeil:
"Young Dane Kasper Harup-Hansen has been chosen to design an AW08 collection for Topman's Lens area this September. Kasper will join past successes Carolyn Massey, Dexter Wong, Mjolk, and Another Boy, all of who have been hand selected by Gordon Richardson (Design Director, Topman) and Matthew Murphy (B Store, Founder). All five designers will be available from the Lens area in Topman Oxford Circus, La Foret (Japan) and online as well as making their debut in New York."

Still not quite as widely available as I'd like (online doesn't count, you have to be able to try things on!) but when it looks this good I can forgive them. A little. It looks like the rest of the high street and the likes H&M have a fair bit of catching up to do...


Here are our favourites:


Mjolk:

Layered tartans and that shade of blue? Yes please! Anyone who's at all familiar with Steve's wardrobe probably knows that he has a much-worn cardigan that's a very similar colour to this. I love the details on the shoulder of the blue suit (though I'm slightly concerned with the draw-string...). Put me down for the jacket on the left though please!

Kasper Harup-Hansen :

I remember seeing longer length tops somewhere on the catwalk, but I'm slightly surprised that Topman decided to take them on. I think it could look amazing styled just right... plus I just adore the bib bit of this shirt where the pattern is turned slightly.

Dexter Wong:

Mmm, layered grey done so well. I think I like the guy on the left best- that zip-up jacket is brilliant and I love the buttons on his... is that a waist coat? It's the trousers that interest me most of all. I've been loving the baggier trousers that have been all over the catwalks and these look like they could be amazing.

Carolyn Massey:

Ok, confession time. After looking at these pictures late last night I went to bed and actually DREAMT about this cape (hence the title of this post). I kid you not. I promise this is the first time that I have dreamt about a specific item of clothing and I am fully aware of how insane this makes me... however this does not take away from the fact that this is one cool bit of clothing. I've seen a couple of chaps wearing capes on Face Hunter recently and it looks surprisingly good.

I love all of these looks. Topman is leading the way on the High Street and it is some way ahead. My favourite look is the layered grey with the loose trousers. This is perfect autumn dressing. I posted about H&M launching a more fashion forward line but Topman have raised the bar yet again and left all competitors trailing. It is a;ways refreshing to see some style being offered on the High Street, I just hope that other retailers wake up to the fact that there is a market for these clothes.

Update: The Collection is available from 14th September. I'm sick of the lack of Summer let's just fast forward to autumn winter. I prefer autumnal dressing anyway, I can't wait to experiment with layers and textures again.

Picture Postcard - Inspired by EJ's find

Outfit: APC jacket, margiela white t shirt, unconditional trousers, b store silver hi tops.

Dear EJ

I have to admit that there has been times when you have influenced my style. The most frequent cases are when you offer a gentle nudge whilst shopping; for example picking out an item that you know I wouldn't normally choose and making me at least think about it. I think we all need to be challenged from time to time and you have certainly done that over the years. other times, you can just pick out an idea/image which makes me want to try it. This from garance dore was one of those examples. I challenge you to do this more.

Much Love

Steve

Acne on the rise

Whenever I have a spare few minutes in Central London (which is frequently, normally because Susie is late) I love wandering into Borders to finger the latest magazines and even discover new magazines. As a student I would pore over the magazines for quite some time, take them up to Starbucks and read page after page over an Americano (in a ridiculously large bucket which should not be described as a cup) getting my aesthetic, glossy fix before leaving a pile of them used and abused on the pine of a starbucks chair. These days I actually buy them (most of the time). Recently, the London weather took a turn for the worse and as the rain lashed down I ran into seek shelter within the aisles of books and magazines and I discovered HE magazine - I've since been told that it positions itself in a unique market niche...fashion for heterosexual men - I care very little of this but did enjoy the no nonsense and down to earth format of the pages. Although published from Copenhagen the magazine has a distinctly US meets Stockholm feel, the likes of Opening Ceremony, Adam Kimmel and Acne represented extensively. It is the latter which I want to concentrate on here.

The recent S/S 09 collection saw Johannsen take a modern interpretation of America’s bad boy culture of the 1950s and I loved it.

Acne's been all the rage what with their collaboration with Lanvin, their general status as everyone’s favorite jean company and their awesome Spring/Summer 09 show getting good reviews. Over the past week alone I have been confronted with various forms of Acne (not the pizza faced teens kind..anyway, we rarely call it acne, they are just spots to us Brits) countless times and rather than be turned off them (which is normally the case with) I'm intrigued and in awe it all. Within the interview Johansson tells us that at first the name was acronym, standing for Ambition to Create Novel Expression but ultimately it evolved from a desire to have a creative collective, out of an idea of mixing different disciplines and most importantly making products for themselves.

The interview with Jonny Johannson illustrates the creative dynamic of the brand extremely well.

There is much more to the Acne brand than just red stitched jeans (for which the brand became known), it is in reality a diverse creative collective (I so, want my own...Thom Wong come join us...everyone please let me know if you want to join my collective) which has given rise to Acne Paper.

The plan for the Acne Paper was to bring out a publication that weaved together people, imagery, history, newness, and the pleasures of inter-generational exchange and learning. For an interesting insight into the mind of the editor-in-chief - Thomas Perrson read his blog entry for The Moment. The element of the paper that interests me the most is an idea of research, showing the brands inspiration to the outside world and this has ordinarily been kept very private. All in all there is a great deal of inspiration to be taken from the brand, Acne have certainly come a long way from 'just jeans' and offer so much more.

Unlikely style icons - Michael Stipe

I've never been able to make my mind up about Michael Stipe. There can be no denying that he does get around a bit though, mixing in a number of circles and experimenting with a number of different mediums. This is not a discussion about his music, his films or anything other than a brief exploration of his style. I'm keen to get you involved, help me out...is he a style icon? He certainly has always been distinctively dressed, at times he gets it very right and at others...well less so. The man himself said in a recent interview with HE magazine that "I don't think I'm particularly stylish. I do have access to and am aware of people who are doing really cool stuff." It certainly helps having access to an amazing array of designers but Stipe's eye for detailing proves to me that he is a stylish chap.

As shown on Kempt, here is Stipe wearing a handmade chalk-striped three-piece suit from Freemans Sporting Club, a checked shirt by Thom Browne, a plain black tie from Druthers Appointments, and a scholarly pair of specs.

Unfortunately, aside from the above, there aren't that many easy to find images to support my musings so I've had to take matters into my own hands and steal them from HE, I love the mix of colour and classic tailoring - something I will be trying very soon. Below he is wearing Jacket and Jeans by Junya Watanabe, V neck and shirt by Acne Considered Classics - Apologies for the blurry image....it is the best I could get.

I will leave you with a quote from Stipe where his honesty about clothes is refreshing. "For me dressing is all about confidence. I have body issues like everyone does. If something I wear makes me feel taller, stronger, more handsome, more confident, more able to complete my sentences when I walk out of the house in the morning, then it's done a great job for me that day." I think most of us would agree with that.

Savage style worn with grace

Last night I went to see Savage Grace and although the subject matter of the film is unsettling and the direction cold at times, the film should be seen for it's style alone. Before I explore the style I guess I should give you an overview of the story, so here goes. On Friday, 17th November 1972, a shocking crime rocked London. Wealthy American socialite Barbara Baekeland had been stabbed to death in her Chelsea apartment by her own son, Tony. The film is a tale of money and madness, incest and matricide and tells the saga of Brooks and Barbara Baekeland - heirs to the Bakelite plastics fortune - and their son Tony, unfolding against a glamorous international background. Directed by Tom Kalin (best known for his provocative 1992 drama Swoon) Savage Grace is most effective as a truly subtle study of a mother-son relationship gone terribly wrong.

The trailer for me casts the film in a poor light (accentuating the slightly grating speech of the main characters) but please don't let this put you off the film. The film might be disturbing and quite cold at times and is more likely to be remembered for it's shocking content as opposed to anything else...however I would like to point out and celebrate the style of the film. Comparisons can certainly be drawn with The Talented Mr Ripley but I believe this film has more style substance.

Just look at that setting. This is relaxed, stylish summer dressing, very similar to that seen in The Talented Mr Ripley. There were better oufits but unfortunately the images are not yet available on line. There is one scene where Tony wears rolled up khaki trousers so effortlessly well, that it looks like something which I would like to try.

The father, Brooke was dressed well throughout the film but the above image shows him at his most suave..just look at the moustache!

I have picked this image because I have always wanted a robe just like this, everything about it is perfect..plus I have a thing about baths.

For me the image above is the quintessential image of the film (I prefer to not talk about the pose and what he is waiting for). On the suit Barbara remarks that she likes the suit and claims it to be from Gieves&Hawkes (she likes him in Gieves...eww), Tony quips that is in fact from the more exclusive Anderson & Sheppard "One can walk in to Gieves but one has to be walked into Anderson & Sheppard" (my favourite quote from the film and what great tailoring).

I wish there were more images to show you but these should be enough to wet your aesthetic appetites. Go out and watch it over the weekend and let me know what you think. I am going to return to the syle of one of the stars, Eddie Redmayne in the coming days because he been everywhere in the last few months, including the Spring/Summer Burberry Campaign, Nylon and Dazed&Confused to name just a few places.

Not dead.

Just because I'm on Blog Lite (tm) mode at the moment, doesn't mean it's internet lite. I think I'm actually incapable of doing internet lite... Just to keep you entertained over this no doubt super rainy weekend, here's a taster of what I'm been reading about.

- How great is this guy? I found him on garance dore which is unfortunately in French too complicated for me to understand. I love his trousers, which to my eyes look like modern Charlie Chaplin (and a bit like everyone's trousers in Batman the Animated Series, but I've got that on the brain right now)... and check out the close up: round framed glasses, joy! Really love his hair too.

- This sort of links in with what I was saying about shoe lifts I guess... James Brown's estate is going up for sale. If you don't fancy the platform shoes, you can even get your mitts on his hair care products. For a full listing of lots, click here.

- There's been some serious comfort music going on at casa EJ which involves, among other things, copious amounts of Jeff Buckley. This includes watching the video to So Real and remembering that there's more to ties than just the skinny tie. Shocking, I know. I am more than a little obssessed with Jeff at the moment, so expect more on him in the near future.

- Here's something I never thought I'd write: maybe gladiator sandals on men COULD work. Darn you I Luw Fashion!

- Oh, and remember that Raf Simons/Fred Perry collaboration everyone was talking about? Daniel Jenkins (him again) has the first of it in stock. Don't expect it to stay in stock for long though.

- Fringed trainers: yay or nay?

We have made it to the weekend! Good to have you dip your toe in the blogging waters despite being in blog lite (tm) mode.

Why EJ, you have been addicted to the internet throughout the time I've known you (almost 6 years), in fact I would say that you weaned me on here aswell. I like the close up of the chap so much that I thought we had to include it here:

Ordinarily I'm not a fan of the sunglasses as neck accessory but the round rimmed glasses are awesome and there is so much going on there that you cant not like it. This shot also shows how well his jacket is cut and I'm liking how the proportions of the slim cut jacket are played upon by the loose, relaxed fit trouser. Good find.

I've been waiting for the Raf/Fred collection to become available for some time and demand is certainly going to be high (despite the substantial price as it is worth investing in). Originally I wanted the long sleeve polo but foolishly my impatient nature forced me to buy the on sale Alastair Kimm for Fred Perry long sleeved polo.

I'm not a fan of the fringed trainer and it's not only Gucci who are doing this right now. I just don't see the point in the fringing. Not for me.

PS - You have always been obsessed by Jeff Buckley and I'm amazed that he has featured so little on the blog. It is time for your obsession to be released into the public realm.

Fashion Forward Menswear with H&M

Mensrag informed me that H&M are planning on pushing menswear next season and about time to! The reason for the push? Well because they believe men are finally ready for more fashionable items. For me H&M used to be a great place to find the odd gem but in recent seasons it has really lost its way (as the Divided collection grew and grew - which primarily consists of gaudy t shirts in my opinion). The accessories on offer have always been pretty decent and varied. I often used to see stylish guys shopping in H&M and finding some great pieces...I just couldn't shop there. The best thing I've bought in recent years is a pair of novelty Hulk boxer shorts, which as it happens were a little too tight for my comfort so I was doing my own Bruce Banner impression but I shouldn't go on with this story...

Come September the Swedish retailers plan to update their racks with more fashion forward items for men (that phrase concerns me somewhat) - including jumpsuits, fake fur coats and flamboyant heck suits with wide lapels (this brief insight into the collection unsettles me further, but atleast they are looking to do something different). As men are becoming more fashion conscious the retail chain feel its perfect time to introduce fashion forward men’s garments - “Men have become more into fashion and more daring when it comes to details and silhouettes which is great to see.” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s head of design."

Will Mads Mikkelsen be wearing fake fur come September?

It won't all be fake fur and wide lapels though (phew), apparently checks will be the casual statement come September, alongside big knits and more conceptional creations where H&M designers turn up the volume, transforming cardigans into outerwear and making an oversize scarf the centre piece of an outfit (I like the sound of that). I've not been inside one of their stores for a while now but I will definitely have a look in a couple of months.

Acne and Lanvin reach a shared Hi

I try not to use the blog as a medium to salivate over set items, especially when they are the result of collaborations (it seems I read of another interesting collaboration daily) but my hand has been forced by the below trainers.

Recently the news spread of the Lanvin and ACNE collaboration and it instantly got me thinking of what could be. I didn't have to wait long until I caught a glimpse of what could actually be - the two worlds combine to create something awesome. I saw these hi tops and fell in love. They are perfection. We have to wait until November until they are available though.

Blog Lite (tm)

Photo found here

This is just a heads up to you lot out there that we might be a little more infrequent with posting during July- just call it our summer holiday.

Guest post: Daniel Jenkin's thoughts on Paris

We were so happy with the results of our interview with Daniel Jenkins that we couldn't resist asking him whether he would report on Paris fashion week for us... and were pleased as punch when he agreed! The following post is Paris fashion week from an interesting point of view: that of a consumer, admirer and purveyor of men's fashion. The rest of this post is Dan's....

Last week having donned my frippery and finery, packed as much hand luggage as is possible and gotten through security, I headed off for Men’s Fashion week in Paris. Like Euro 2008 but slightly more exciting and this time the British are invited. Milan is lovely, New York is splendid but the real action takes place in Paris. Whether you are into Lanvin or YMC there is no option than to attend. Now I know that makes it sound like it’s a chore and despite my protestations to friends and family that it really is tough going it’s actually my favourite two weeks of the year. It’s also a shining beacon to people in the UK about how men’s fashion could and should be treated.

Kilgour's first show was a highlight for us all - image courtesy of men.style.com

The week is split up into two distinct groups. The shows and the trade shows. Now like most of you I have to watch the Lanvin or Kilgour show via men.style.com. Lanvin, I really enjoyed, preferred it to last season – which given I couldn’t stop talking about it is some achievement. I was suitably impressed by Kilgour, mostly because I want the Aston they had outside. One of our oldest houses has taken an interesting step in showing. I know it’s been on the cards for a while but I wonder what effect it’ll have on the Savile Row side of the business. In fact I found the Parisian shows fascinating both from a pure fashion but also financial sense. Apart from Milan which is always very luxurious and quite commercial this is the first time we’ve been able to see what effect the supposed ‘credit crunch’ has had. I love the advent of pyjamas. This has been bubbling under for the last few seasons and finally is coming to the fore. Coupled with a slightly more crumpled look, which given my hatred of ironing is a blessing in disguise. Although we’ve been preaching this relaxed gospel for quite some time.

The recent and i collection featured on refinery29

The bulk of my time is taken up with trade shows. Namely Tranoi, Rendez-Vous and, for the first time, New York’s Capsule. This being fashion ‘darhling’ these are unlike anything else. They enable buyers and labels from all over the world to congregate and go through the new collections. Most of our labels are British so I do much of my buying in the UK but the Parisian shows are vital to keep me in tune with what's happening and helping me to unearth some gems.

Tranoi is held in the Palais De La Bourse, which is the old French stock exchange and is suitably impressive. Housing labels as diverse as Ally Capellino, Mackintosh, Limoland. Each season they work with a particular designer to showcase their work. In the past it’s been labels such as Acne. Walter Van Beirendonck was this season's focus with catwalk shows from Bernhard Willhelm. The Van Beirendonck photos outside the venue were amongst the most interesting I’ve seen in a while and acted as a thoughtful tribute to his unique take on fashion.

Away from Haussmann’s grandeur, and deep in the Marais are Rendez-Vous and Capsule. Rendez-vous is split between a couple of sites. Usually slightly industrial and always highly conspicuous. Having gotten hopelessly lost – sat-nav on telephones is not a godsend - I finally found the new venue they were using. This housed labels such as Unconditional, Chronicles of Never, Satyenkumar and Lou Dalton. All of which are taking interesting routes in dealing with the current situation fashion finds itself in. Unconditional’s collection was huge and showed the label's continued march towards Brit fashion domination with the sophistication of the AW08 collection taken even further. Satyenkumar I still believe is the biggest under the radar talent we have in British menswear. The new collection was based on 'old British sea side towns and Romany gypsy fairs’. Mixing a wonderful eye for fabric, colour and texture with wonderful use of cutting and tailoring. The stand next to Satyen’s was occupied by Lou Dalton. Someone whose work we’ve been falling in love with from afar for quite some time. It was nice to get up close and personal with the clothes and meet Louise. Again it was a collection that wore its Britishness proudly without becoming a pastiche. Having spent all day trying to persuade people to allow me to ‘borrow’ samples and a very good meal, I decided to head over to see the new boy.

Now I must confess there has been a lot of talk about Capsule within the industry for a couple of months and I certainly didn’t know what to expect. Would it take the format of the show in New York or try something different? As the mantra goes ‘Location Location Location’ and the setting for the show was something else. I’m not often silenced but this did the trick.

It was housed in the Hotel de Liberal Bruant on the market apparently for 22 Million Euros (damn exchange rate) which is just around the corner from the Place des Vosges, my favourite part of Paris. The interesting thing about Capsule was that it had such a large venue but a really small brand portfolio. Showcasing labels including: April77 (who provided the music and the bad singing), YMC, Won Hundred, Fred Perry, Garbstore, Our Legacy and Vincent Schoepfer – who win the prize for my favourite look book of the season, although Our Legacy aren’t far behind. You probably wouldn’t be surprised how many shows manage to forget we are there to view the garments. This made Capsule refreshing. It also echoed the new spirit that seems to fill the collections. Almost as if they are sticking two fingers up to common perception about what they should do. Me, being the silly romantic fell in love with a few pieces. There was one jacket by YMC, which if Beth from the label didn’t know where I lived, would’ve been straight out of the door with me. Really nice use of pockets and wonderful detailing.

I enjoy being given the ability to meet, chat and swap ideas with the people who deal with and create the collections. Something which a runway presentation never enables you to do. It’s nice to see how much labels are progressing and how far British labels have come. Almost taking the gauntlet laid down by the Scandinavian houses and coming up with something unique. It also interested me that most of the risks were being taken by British Labels.

As well as all this work.... Paris offers the opportunity for a bit of Star Spotting: Kanye was floating about all week. You’ve got to love a chap who visits Paris Fashion Week for his holiday! Shopping: A visit to Colette always does one good. Networking and partying: The Brit Disco again with Colette was really good. I’m noticing a recurring theme here about the emergence of British men's fashion. I’ve got all my fingers crossed. Gordon Richardson expressed it wonderfully in an interview with Dazed Digital when he said he "hoped the focus on men’s fashion was here to stay and .... that there are so many people who are not going to allow it to fail"

– Stop press: I’ve just looked at Dazed again and there is a picture of me from the party. I must be the only guy blackberrying his mum... Fame at last!

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Sale!

As he has been so kind with his time (and because there's bargains to be had!), it would be remiss of us not to let you all know Daniel Jenkins is having a 50% off sale that started yesterday (5th July). Steve will most certainly top up his sale purchases as he's got the taste for sale shopping now. There are a few things he's looking at, in particular this Satyenkumar shirt and this and i windjammer.

You'll be my Brazilian boy

Why does Fabrizio Rollo suddenly seem to be everywhere I look? It could be because I have been compulsively typing 'Fabrizio Rollo' into google, but I'm not sure. Whatever the reason is, there's no doubt that he's quite compelling to look at. From what I can work out he is a fashion editor at Brazilian Men's Vogue... and it also seem that the Sart is quite taken with him, as most of the pictures in this post are his.
And honestly, I'm a bit obsessed. While I'm not necessarily besotted with all of his outfits- or even elements within particular get ups- the details are just brilliant. His way with textures is especially interesting and there's just this care and freshness and personality that is missing from so many supposedly stylish men.
I know that a lot of people didn't like the laces tied around his ankles in the picture above (I can't say that I do either really) but I love love LOVE his shirt (Steve, please note that he is wearing a vest underneath his shirt to avoid any nipple displays). The scarf (or is it a foulard?) adds just the right amount of interest.

I really like the mixture of texture and patterns in this outfit... and I haven't even mentioned that wonderful beard yet...

(Picture 1 courtesy of Branded Male, pictures 2 and 3 courtesy of the Sartorialist and picture 4 from Chic in Paris)

Picture Postcard - Stockholm Streetstyle

I am always on the look out for interesting street style sites and have been impressed by the combinations and choice of subjects over on Stockholm Street Style recently... it might just have something to do with some girl I know being featured. Stockhom StreetS tyle offer some great men's street style as well, just look at this chap below...

Robin was recently featured looking very much like he stumbled of a slightly more causual Lanvin runway... but pretty much wearing a Stockholm uniform with a twist - "I have a shirt from acne, coat from Whyred, shoes from acne, trousers from Whyred, and a cap from Propp." For me the look has been transformed by the flower and it reminded me of EJ's Valentines Day suggestion. It is such an easy accessory and one most of us (me included) just don't do enough. I challenge you all to take a flower from your garden (if you don't have one try one of your neighbours - beware of dogs) or even from your Mum's vase at home and pin the finest bloom you can find to your lapel. Let us know how you get on! I will upload my shots on Monday.