Doodling AW11

For the last week few weeks our brains have been overloaded with look book images, catwalk scenes and enthralled critical ramblings leaving us stylishly dazed. With a healthy portion of the AW11 season still left to parade itself to the eyes of the wanting world, we are in need of a break. Thankfully, the stunning artwork of Style Salvage favourite, Little Doodles, provides a welcome respite from the seemingly endless collection slideshows which currently dominate our online world. Having already illustrated two of her favourite looks from Milan, we approached the talented artist to reimagine our own early highlights of the season to accompany snippets of our own ramblings. Let the beauty of the season so far wash over you...

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Jil Sander

For AW11, Raf Simons took inspiration from the minimal roots of Jil Sander menswear but managed to make its trademarks of old his own. With a keen focus on fabric and texture, Simons cut shoulders sharply, left jackets voluminous and integrated feminine effortlessly.

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Burberry

Christopher Bailey used this show to celebrate diversity of outerwear and the great heritage Burberry has in outfitting us against the elements. It was a celebration of variety. Whichever style or cut you reach for during the autumn winter months, it was showcased here. Trench, duffel and pea coats, double and single breasted, slim or over sized, leather, fur, wool and down materials were all paraded down the catwalk. At times it was muddled but there were moments of perfection amongst the dizzying onslaught of jackets.

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Missoni

Missoni used a plethora of wools and technological advancements to create layer upon layer of texture rich knitwear that had all of the comfort without any of the bulk that you'd expect. This was a collection full of looks that all of us crave during those depressing months.

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Marni

Nonchalent elegance. Slouchy utilitarianism and laid back layering of contrasting fabrics in earthy hues. It is nigh on impossible to dislike this collection, surely? My wardrobe certainly needs an healthy injection of Marni AW11.

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Dries Van Noten

Van Noten looked to classic garments of evening dress and experimented with layering and finishes before mixing casual elements to create a collection that pushed menswear quietly forward. The stylish moments of Bowie and Cocteau were remembered to create a collection that oozed glamour and elegance yet still remained masculine.

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Woolrich Woolen Mills

Here, Mark McNairy takes the creative helm of goodship Woolrich for the first time and whilst remaining true to the brand's obvious rugged aesthetic confidently steers it towards preppy tailoring. McNairy has managed to stamp his own direction on the label and compliment the well received legacy of Daiki Suzuki at the same time. Well played.

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Raf Simons

 

Simons once again flexed his maximal muscles as he paraded a variety of shapes, vivid hues and contrasting textures down the catwalk. He possesses an unparalleled ability to reimagine age old garments through his innovative use of fabric and colour. For AW11, Duffle coats were one of the cornerstones of the collection. Here they were contrasted with black PVC trousers and worn over latex tops. Despite an air of uncertainty with the news that Simons has terminated his relationship with his business partners in Italy, one thing is clear, the future of menswear is very much in the capable hands of Raf Simons.

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Let it rain on Mount Street

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Thankfully, in 1823, Charles Macintosh developed the process of spreading rubber onto cotton to create the worldʼs first formal waterproof fabric, signaling the arrival of the original Mackintosh coat. Since then it has dedicated itself to keep the world stylishly dry. Today, Mackintosh is a firmly established brand with an almost cult status, especially in the Japanese market. Recognised for its unique hand made authenticity, the great British label produce outerwear for a diverse range of clients in Paris, Milan and Tokyo; including high profile luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Dior, YSL and fashion designers Erdem, Junya Watanabe and Nigel Cabourn to name but a meaty mouthful.  

Thankfully, the brand resisted temptation from Japan and has opted to open its maiden store in the aptly, drizzly British capital.  The fabulously located Mount Street store officially opens its doors this evening but I was extremely fortunate to have Daniel Dunko, UK managing director of Mackintosh Ltd, as my store guide and brand enlightener earlier this afternoon.

I could not have had a better guide to talk me through the beautiful two story space than Mackintosh's very own Daniel Dunko. As he talked me through the latest designs, I was amazed to learn that he began his working life with Mackintosh as an apprentice on the factory floor back in 1983 and has since worked his way up to the position he hold now. He has worked for Mackintosh for twenty eight years come May. Following the three year apprenticeship he then served on the Cumbernauld floor for two years before embarking on a sales and marketing position at the company, then a directorship in 1996 and he never looked back. It was an absolute pleasure to hear about Dunko's experiences right from the craftsmanship of the factory floor to buyouts and investments. Unsurprisingly, he was hugely excited by the latest development in his brand's rich history. It was contagious.  

104 Mount Street is Mackintosh's flagship store. Prior to that they have enjoyed a strong concession presence, particularly in Japan and the rest of Asia but the brand began to put the plans together for their own space two years ago. Thankfully they only had their sights on London. Previously, the only retail presence they had in the capital was a shared store with Globetrotter located in Burlington Arcade which was forced to close following changes of ownership. Soon after they decided that they needed their own flagship store and, as they are a relatively niche brand, Mayfair and Mount Street were the perfect fit.

World famous interior designers and architects Wonderwall created the two floor, 90sqm state-of-the-art store and key features include an interior in tune with the modern Mackintosh brand and is truly inspired by its British craftsmanship. The design sought to showcase the brand's rich history, fruitful archives and latest ranges in a welcoming consumer friendly environment. For me, the design highlight has to be the three display cases showing iconic pieces from the Mackintosh's history. Since its inception, the brand has always been at the forefront of outerwear design and these display cases are a welcome reminded. From the Army coat from the 1930s which was a very heavy, rubberised bonded twill, to the a Dispatch Riders coat worn in the second World War to help deliver on deliver messages to the troops via motorcycles on the front line, on to to the British Rail days and outfitting rail staff in the 70s.

Mackintosh is undoubtedly a brand of modern heritage built on true craftsmanship and a two hundred year history. If you were in any doubt, the Mount Street store gently reminds you at every turn, from  the encased vintage pieces to the feel of their latest garments which hang invitingly on hooks and rails. Every genuine Mackintosh garment is carefully hand made by skilled craftsmen who serve a three-year apprenticeship to perfect the techniques required to make a true mackintosh. With its factory in Cumbernauld, Scotland focused on hand made outerwear, Mackintosh also owns a second factory in Nelson, England producing the machine made side of its collections. The brand have sixty people in the Lancashire factory and about sixty seven in the factory in Scotland. Production wise it is similarly equally split. The Scottish factory creates all of he handmade pieces, and the factory in England concentrates on the machine work with cashmeres, wools, gabardines. I was amazed to learn that the label produce around thirty five thousand garments apiece at these pillars of British manufacturing.

In terms of design, the brand's archive pieces are hugely important and the teams in both Glasgow and Japan continue to rework, renew and reinvigorate items of yesteryear for the future generation of Mackintosh wearers. The archive is approximately five hundred pieces strong, many of which are the results of collaborations, from catwalk piece for Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons to Yohji Yamaoto and shortly the fruits of the design partnership with Kitsune. Having had my interest in the latest collaboration piqued after the Voyageur collection received a fair amount of blog coverage in the run up Christmas, this was the first opportunity I had to see it in the cloth and I was not left disappointed.  This is a happy marriage of two like minded brands, one from a manufacturing background and one from a design perspective combining to create truly covetable outerwear. Fittingly, I was particularly taken with the London. Stunning.

The unveiling of this impressive store, coupled with the brand’s British heritage and modern cuts, truly confirms the resurgence of the brand. Mackintosh will never forget that the rubberised coat was one of the most creative and revolutionary innovations that changed the lives of so many during that era.  However, most interestingly the brand keeps evolving and offering timeless contemporay collections. Mackintosh is the original British rainwear brand, long may it continue. Let it rain.

(Pleased with myself as I managed to make it through to the end of the post without bursting in to Mark Morrisons' classic)

Baartmans & Siegel's AW11 Deckard

On the bluest of blue Monday's we have a real treat for you. Baartmans and Siegel's AW11 collection, entitled Deckard, should help transform you from a damp Eeyore to a bouncing Tiger in a matter of stylish moments. Since we showcased the degree collections of the Dutch/English design halves that make up Baartmans & Siegel, the label has become one to watch, recognisable by the pairs use of interactive texture and sharp tailoring. For AW11, they have evolved their offering by developing these signatures even further and have introduced new covetable threads such as the interspersion of draped, soft, rounded tailoring amongst the sharp cuts and have experimented with even more tactile fabrications that provoke endless stroking and much luxurious comfort.

This suit is a new technique of printed velvet, a light base grey allows for a murky cloud print which creates texture and shadow. The pair developed this digital print alongside a velvet specialist to create tailoring of a type, this blogger has not seen before. 

Of course,  Deckard takes its inspiration from the 1982 science fiction film Blade Runner. Deckard is the existential detective. The blade runner who tracks down artificial humans in this futuristic noir-scape, ensuring their destruction. However, rather than an obvious homage to the dystopian urban characters and scenes created by Ridley Scott, Baartmans & Siegel looked deeper and picked out key themes to create pieces that are wonderfully subtle yet highly wearable and detail rich. This is performance lux. Functional items that effortlessly combine luxury with a sense of protection throughout.

Texture, texture, texture.

Combinations of texture, always tactcile and ever comforting.

Two pieces which are particularly interesting are constructed by a gradient double knit grey wool which adds a subtle frosting luxe to the casualwear items.

Self described as modern-traditionalists, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel’s work focuses on beautiful fabrics that seduce, and shapes that are accessible yet distinctive. Once again, fabric is key for AW11. Here the collection predominantly uses a variety of silks, wools, linens and mohairs. They have worked with Italian, Japanese and Swiss textile mills to ensure that they have sources the most innovative materials of the highest quality. The collection has been designed so that many of the pieces are interchangeable and to give the wearer more stylistic control. It is important for both Amber and Wouter that each garment is strong individually, while flexible enough to be combined and to interact well with others.

This collection contains many technical fabric elements which relate to their inspiration of futuristic si-fi environments, such as those created int he novel by Phillip. K. Dick- "Do Androids dream of electric sleep? and in Ridley Scott's Blade Runner.

The exciting design duo have always experimented with texture combinations in their collections, at times with spectacular effect, but here the pair have experimented across individual pieces. If the pieces themselves do not demonstrate physical texture, they at the very least demonstrate visual texture. This is a collection that is a celebration of detail and a treat for both the eyes and skin.

I just love the height of this fur hood. Super luxurious parka.

The electric glow of the collection.

Ridley Scott's masterpiece provided a great deal of inspiration for the colour palette. Colour is used with subtle effect, creams, inky cloud prints, greens, burnt oranges echo the protagonist's attire and the dull electric glow that haunts the futuristic urban landscape. The pair replicated some of the technical processes the film producers used to create the logo, they did a lot of a paper placement on their logo development and here, Baartmans & Siegel did the same for their prints.

The label's shirts are constructed by a Swiss shirt manufacture which combines two dimensions of woven pin-tuck pleats, highlighting height and depth.

The silk print used on shirts and scarves are hand crafted and created through paper and watercolour placement, which have then been abstracted and distorted through size manipulation and experimentation.

A closer look at the print.

The label's commercial launch by Harrods has been a great chance to gage UK retail, and understand the balance of design and function. For AW11, the Baartmans & Siegel brand ethos continues to focus on Luxury, but due to popular demand, they have also begun to look at incorporating slightly more casual elements. Each season, the design duo have extended the collection, allowing for more versatility and for AW11, they have pushed it even further while still continuing to develop a specifically identifiable handwriting. Each season the pair enjoy building on classic lines and developing more evolved shapes, silhouettes and garments.

As useful as my detail shots are in highlighting texture play, I'm pleased to be able to share the recently shot collection look book with you...

Excitingly as of AW11, Baartmans & Siegel will be extending their retail points in the UK. Furthermore, they would like to continue to grow and be stocked within Europe, as well as internationally.  As well as being stocked in shops and boutiques, this season they plan on launching the e-commerce section of their website, where you will be able to by items such as shoes, knitwear and outerwear directly from the website. This will be a great way to purchase limited editions and key pieces of each collection. In near future, the label will be working on some exiting collaborations, and hope to present again at Menswear Day at LFW, to continue to build a strong presence within the menswear and design community. It is easy to predict that 2011 is going to be a huge year for the label.