Casely-Hayford for John Moore on my feet

Casely-Hayford's Seven Hole boot

Just over one year ago, I fell head over heels for Casely-Hayford's Paragon boot. Every once in a while you encounter a collection that encapsulates your dream wardrobe. Now, Casely-Hayford have a habit of producing such a collection and their A Darker Shade of Black for AW10, left me contemplating a life of crime to posses it all. Drawn to everything, I was particularly taken with the design duo's update on John Moore's most iconic boot; a twelve hole construction, goodyear welted toe strap boot. As it was lust at first sight, I should have snapped them up the moment my bleary eyes focused on them but after much dithering, the limited run production slipped through my wanting fingers. I thought all was lost and that my feet would never forgive me. However, for AW11 the father and son design team managed to create a new love, even stronger than the first. Having learnt my lesson, I snapped them up at the earliest opportunity. The addition of these boots to my ever growing shoe collection will provide a welcome respite for my well worn Lodger's Kudu brogued boots (stay tuned for a restoration post) that have pounded so many pavements over the years. I now have a new favourite and I'm excited to road test them for London Fashion Week...

The boots worn with trousers by Tim Soar and red socks from Uniqlo.

John Moore first designed the ‘toe strap’ boot with the Desborough factory in 1986, before changing manufacturer in 1987. The original design was a seven eyelet boot, Goodyear welted and with a Northampton appearance. It fused elements of punk/seditionaries, Skinhead styling and traditional British work boots. The Toe strap became a cult boot. Here it has been reimagined by Casely-Hayford who have used the same maker to update the boots for a new generation. The boots showcase the duality that drives the brand. With each of their six seasons, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. It is an ever intriguing house that encourages change whilst being grounded in tradition. Here, they combining styling from the punk and skinhead scene, with a traditional British work boot shape whilst many of the features from Moore’s original design remain.

The boots are seven hole construction with a goodyear welted heavy duty sole. Brogue detailing at the ankle, on the heel-strap, and around toe cap are accentuated by the protruding toe-strap, all of which give this iconic boot its nickname and a distinctive look.

Having declared my intent on adding them to my collection, the only difficulty lay in choosing between black or chestnut. They are equally beautifully. If I had my way I would double team them but life is not a fantasy. As you can see, after much deliberation and soul searching, I opted for black. I could not be happier with my choice which is a good thing because my work colleague Andrew, also seduced by the charms of the design chose chestnut. I'm pushing for visiting rights. I've found my (near identical) boot twin. Fame and fortune await...right...right?

Andrew sporting the boots in Chestnut

Making Mr Porter's acquaintance

The fanfare of a big launch leaves me cold. From an album release to the latest product drop, widespread hysteria and hype never fails to sour my interest. The unveiling of Mr Porter back in February had the same effect. However, back in the summer of last year I could not have been more excited and intrigued. I was one of the lucky few to listen to Natalie Massenet hint at what the online store might become as she danced and dazzled her way through her discussion with Imran Amed for Fashion Pioneers. With Net-a-Porter, Massenet has spent the last ten years luring women away from their favourite physical stores by offering something that’s a more attractive better mousetrap for the consumer. With Mr Porter, she was turning her attention to me(n). Throughout the hour long discussion my appetite for the future of online menswear retail was whet. Yet, as my hunger grew, so did the marketing and mass media frenzy. Suddenly, my appetite diminished. The early Spring launch arrived on time and of course I appreciated the reveal but I was not as wowed as I thought I could be. Now, the marriage of commerce and culture was instantly a happy one given that it was housed in such a sleek and inviting environment but something was missing. For me, the first season of products were a little too... expected. There were very few surprises or items to quicken the ticker in amongst the covetable staples. This is why I've not written anything about the site...until now.

Since Mr Porter's inception, Massenet has amassed something of a dream team. The staff and contributors list reads like a who's who of British menswear journalism and retail. The buying team is particularly strong and as the second season of products begin to appear online they are undoubtedly flexing in front of an admiring audience, myself included. A diverse mix of over forty brands have been added to the list of designers. Intrigued, I visited the well groomed Westfield office and met with Mr Porter's Buying Director, Toby Bateman. Over a cup of coffee, I listened as Bateman enthusiastically discussed AW11. As he bounced from find to find, detailing what it was that precisely caught the eye for his first full buying season, the personality of Mr Porter revealed itself. Up to this point, I had considered the site to be a touch dull and one dimensional but Bateman's excitement was infectious, more than that though, it was justified. As the season welcomes Gilded Age, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Gant and most interestingly, J. Crew, Oliver Spencer and Hentsch Man, the contemporary and more causal offering has been beefed up quite remarkably. Furthermore, with the addition of impressive Parisen debuts from Ami and Monsieur Lacenaire and renowned cashmere from Loro Piana, I've instantly had a few knitwear surprises. Previously Mr Porter has appeared a little too stiff for my tastes but it has now evolved in to something of a sartorial chameleon. It no longer appeals to one man but many.

Now, I wish I could share my chat with you all but the gremlins that live inside the Voice Memo application on my iphone have decided to play mean. However, undeterred by technical difficulties, I feel that the below selection of look book shots will prove just as persuasive in raising your excitement for Mr Porter's AW11 offering...      

I especially like Raf Simons' duffle coats and fair isle knits.

Super sleek Givenchy

Two looks from Ami. 
As Ami, Alexandre Mattiussi aims to produce an effortless wardrobe of stylish, wearable clothes. He looks to have achieved it on his very first attempt.

Combining traditional standards of production with a contemporary aesthetic and attitude, Kitsuné collections have a timeless elegance about them. This cable knit shawl cardigan is simply beautiful.

Oh Monsieur Lacenaire...
One of my favourite discoveries of the season. I have detailed my love of this item already.

These brightly coloured cords from blog favourite Hentsch Man will surely brighten any grey Autumn day.

Plaid wool ties from Alexander Olch
AW11 Look book shots courtesy of Mr Porter.

After a few months of suspicious glances across the Internet, I'm pleased to have finally introduced myself to Mr Porter. One season on after making its eagerly awaited big reveal, the online retailing powerhouse steps away from the fanfare and as it is caught by the blogging spotlight, looks quite dashing indeed. Next time I visit the Westfield office I'm bringing my tooth brush and moving in.

Menswear Day Preview... Shaun Samson SS12

Shaun Samson's SS12 lineup

In precisely one weeks time we will be half way through a packed Menswear Day schedule. We would have Asd been amazed by Anderson, seduced by Shannon, dazzled by Dalton and moved by MAN. As we countdown to the big day, it is the latter that is causing our blogging pulse to race. Since its inception and thanks to the support and sponsorship of Topman and Fashion East, MAN has created a whole new momentum in the London menswear scene. Season after season, it grows in profile and importance but the SS12 lineup marks an energised beginning. The talent showcase is all about heralding what’s new in menswear but this lineup is one of the most exciting to date. Martine Rose shows for the third time and is joined by two newcomers, Matthew Miller and Shaun Samson. Now, regular readers will know that Miller is no newbie in our eyes. His work has impressed us for a number of years now and after capturing the collective imagination with his AW11 presentation, his addition to the show lineup marks a much deserved step forward for the design talent. Samson on the other hand is a recent discovery. 

Having stood out with his seamless MA collection of harmoniously fused knits and plaids earlier this year, we met up the California born graduate to learn more about his needle punch felting technique. As we were talked through the design process of his AW11 collection, we could not help ourselves from peeking at what he had in store for us on Menswear Day. Here, we take a look at how colourful Mexican blankets sparked a renewed love affair with his homeland and accompany his words with a few studio shots....

"I was initially really attracted to these Mexican blankets. They are everywhere in California. However, it wasn't until I moved here and away from them for a couple of years before returning that I saw them in a new light. I'd never think to put these colours together but for some reason they work.  They are made in the traditional way by Mexicans and use whatever yarns they have at that time. No two blankets are the same which is great except for when it comes to production but I'll figure it out. The blankets are so nice themselves that I can't over design the garment."

Shaun Samson on the starting point for the collection and the confident use of colour in the blankets.

" From the blankets, I reminisced about growing up in California; the surfers, the grunge and the gangster rap movement."
Shaun Samson on the evolution of design influences from the blankets.

"I'm also experimenting with one off pieces that I won't produce, mixing vintage garments and pushing the aesthetic that bit more"
Shaun Samson hinting at what we can expect to see on Menswear Day
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