Time to have a little fun each morning

After encountering the below Sartorialist shot of Patrick Grant sitting front row awaiting the Jonathon Saunders show I was forced to turn to twitter like an excited little school girl. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit here that I asked "Hands up if you have a (man) crush on Patrick Grant..." Of course many people responded by virtually raising their hands. It seems, a number of people (male and female) swoon at the mere mention of the man's name but as I step over the piles of fainted bodies who took the swooning that bit too far, I ask myself what it is that I admire about him.

Patrick Grant, shot by the Sartorialist

I have huge respect for what he has achieved since becoming the youngest guv'nor on Savile Row. He is the man behind the resurgence of the 187 year old Savile Row firm of tailors, Norton & Sons and has since relaunched the storied house of E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear collection to much, deserved acclaim. Having dressed the pre war elite, from Churchill to Cary Grant, it is a label rooted in history and the past seamlessly runs through the collections. E. Tautz championed the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It adheres to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings, said it best: "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." Having met Patrick Grant a number of times now and having seen the latest flurry of street style shots, both on the Sartorialist and this cheeky gem from StreetStyle Aesthetic, it is clear that he follows this mantra whilst having fun with it.

Playful tailoring, E. Tautz SS10

"I think men have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Patrick Grant, from an interview with SwipeLife.

I was alarmed by the number of comments below the Sartorialist image which described the ensemble as all too much, focusing on the pocket square in particular. The comments on the post combined with just a quick glance out of the window suggests that a lot of people do not experience the pleasure of dressing anymore. It is such a shame. They’ll put on a pair of jeans and a white shirt and will look perfectly good but won’t feel special about what they’re wearing. During menswear day I made the stroll up to the E. Tautz presentation and I'm glad I did. Not only did I get my first bit of food for the day, a piece of shortbread washed down with a cup of tea but I was able to view the playful Quentin Jones video whilst admiring the SS10 collection all over again. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra, a bit of pomp, colour, a sense of humour. It is this little extra which makes E. Tautz special.

In the interview with SwipeLife Patrick continues, "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed. What I love about the E. Tautz collections thus far and how Patrick Grant dresses personally is that both clearly prescribe to the belief that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning.

Style Salvage Speaks to... CSM Student Nicomede Talavera

Nicomede Talavera is a Central Saint Martin’s BA Menswear Fashion Design student who has just embarked on his placement year. Surprisingly, Talavera has found time to complete a fourteen look capsule collection and along with the obvious creative talent it demonstrates has the business nous to promote his debut offering through the blogosphere. We were surprised and excited when we opened the speculative email from the young talent and just had to find out more about the menswear design student.

The debut capsule collection was inspired by photodynamic photography and futurism. Arturo and Anton Giulio Bragaglia’s 1911 portrait Searching and Slap was the initial source of inspiration, but continued research provided other outlets and the result is an impressive collection from a promising talent. At the moment, Talavera is interning with BLAAK in London but plans to work with other leading designers in New York and Paris before returning for his final year of studies next year. We caught up with the young designer to talk through his debut offering and to learn more about his experiences in the fashion world so far...

Nicomede Talavera's SS10 Capsule Collection contains mohair and waffle knits provide texture, while neoprene and nylon break away from tradition, offering diversity and the feel of movement.

SS: Describe the moment you realized you wanted to be a menswear designer?
Nicomede Talavera: I've always felt a connection to menswear being a guy because I obviously wear it day to day, so I felt more of a connection with it than with womenswear. There is major growth and possibilities available, yet still discipline. I've always liked to dress up and experiment with different styles and through this experimentation I think I found my love for menswear and its possibilities.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
Nicomede Talavera: I don't know whether it can be cited as a 'fashion moment' but I think to go back to when we were cave men and women would be very inspiring! I would love to see the craftsmanship and their whole attitude towards clothes was completely different. I think that lots of inspiration could be drawn from their thriftiness, resourcefulness and make-do-and-mend way of living.

SS: What attracted you to CSM in the first place?
Nicomede Talavera: It would have to be mainly the history of successful students and creativity as well as the location and staff. When you walk though the corridors there is a real sense of the amazing things that have taken place there in the past, you do feel a part of history.

SS: The capsule collection has a futuristic sporty aesthetic and the fabrics used are representative of this, tyvek t shirts, nylon shirts, neoprene jackets and bottoms etc. Describe the capsule collection in your own words...
Nicomede Talavera: My key inspiration came from the works of Antonio Bragaglia and his futurism and photodynamism works. As well as the works of Mel Bochner, Larry Bell and Eva Hesse, culminating in a collection which I believe is innovative, fresh, textural, streamlined and wearable.

The accessories using human hair and bolts and neoprene hats.

SS: The accessories are amazing and complement the collection so well. You used quite unusual materials for them including, human hair and metal bolts along with rabbit fur and neoprene hats. What was your inspiration for the accessories and were the materials difficult to work with?
Nicomede Talavera: I've always wanted to learn other design aspect from accessories, shoe design and millinery. To create the hats I went on a one-week Millinery course in July at CSM, which was great because I learned the process from the very beginning to end. For the necklaces The human hair involved alot of hand stitching to attach the chain and create the tassel shapes. I decided to use hair because Antonio Bragaglia's work involves so much movement and I felt that this was a great way to add movement to the look as well as giving it an eerie quality which is also very present in Bragaglia's work. I wanted the hats to finish off the look by creating shadows on the face and creating a masculine yet questionable appearance.

SS: We love how you have created this fourteen look capsule collection and decided to gain awareness of your designs through contacting fashion blogs. Were you encouraged to do this at CSM or was this your idea? Do you read many blogs, which are your favourites?
Nicomede Talavera: My tutor wasn't actually aware of the collection until I emailed him the look book yesterday, so I kept the whole thing completely under wraps and spent the last three months working on it constantly! The reason I decided to go down the route of emailing fashion blogs was because I knew that blogs are becoming very popular and are an increasing way of people getting a quick fix of fashion news which is great. I visit blogs almost daily, my favourites at the moment would have to be The Fashionisto, Jak and Jil and Style Salvage. But to be honest I check loads so can't really choose a favourite!

SS: So far, what has been the best thing about your course? And the worst?
Nicomede Talavera: I think the best would be that we have a lot of varied and sponsored projects. From a digital print project with Paul Smith where we had to design our own floral design. A knitwear project which was a collaboration with Fashion Design Knitwear students and was lectured by CSM Menswear graduate Henrik Vibskov. Not forgetting, the tailoring project which was inspired by Italian cinema and sponsored by Italian fabric companies who supplied us with amazing suiting fabrics/linings/shirting. I think the worst element would be the looming move from the Charing Cross campus to the new Kings Cross campus in 2011. The campus has a great atmosphere and will be a shame to lose it!

SS: What advice would you give a prospective menswear fashion student?
Nicomede Talavera: Work hard! I don't think new students should underestimate how hard it actually is, you need to make sacrifices and put your heart into every project and thing you do. There is a lot of sleepless nights! But there is always a great buzz once you accomplish something and it is definitely worth it! Menswear is changing rapidly each season and to be a new designer and part of its evolution is a great feeling!

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Nicomede Talavera: I think the power of jersey can't be forgotten. From a t-shirt to a sweater you can't be more comfortable, but still stylish!

SS: You are currently interning for BLAAK, how are you finding it? What are you currently working on?
Nicomede Talavera: So far I've been there for 3 weeks and it has been an excellent experience! Seeing every step of a working designers schedule has enabled me to learn a lot of new skills and my eyes have been opened dramatically.

SS: What would you like to achieve in the next year, and beyond?
Nicomede Talavera: Up until August of next year I will be interning with designers in London, New York and Paris. Then in June 2011 I will show my BA graduate collection and then I'd like to go on to my MA. I'm also already beginning on my A/W 2010 collection which will be a lot more condensed and see me pushing and developing my style a lot further.

SS: Lastly, have you got any recommendations that you'd like to share with our readers?
Nicomede Talavera: In the summer 'The Secret Garden' nature park is the go-to place to eat lunch; it is located just behind the Phoenix Theatre and is definitely a welcome escape from the chaos of the West End.

Nicomede Talavera's debut offering is full of covetable pieces but these are two of our favourite looks. We think we'll be hearing alot more from this creative talent...

The Topman Experience

Topman's area 214 includes a house stylist, Sharps' barbers, cafe and Rough Trade.

The last week (and a bit) since Menswear Day has zoomed right past me in an excited but weary blur and the only downside to this is my 'to do' list is getting anxiously long. I have a number of post ideas gathering dust on the crooked shelf that is my mind but there is one in particular which has been waiting patiently long enough. Some of you would have noticed that during Menswear Day I was tweeting like an excited madman for our account but also for Topman's. I don't think my fingers have ever moved so quickly but thankfully I was not struck down with cramp and managed to last the whole day. Following this real time coverage (the wonders of modern technology, eh) I provided a few thoughts on the Topman related shows (New Gen Men and MAN) and got the chance to speak to a number of designers for their blog. As I've said a number of times already, I had a great day and it was amazing to watch menswear design take a huge step forward and I went to bed tired but happy. Topman however, wanted to repay me for my 'hard work' and invited me to the flagship store for a complete 'Topman experience', sampling all that the revamped store had to offer including a trim at Sharps barbers, a meet up with one of the stylists and a chance to get my hands on some of the new designs hanging on the rails.

Something for the weekend? Sharps' can certainly sort your barnet out whilst you shop.

The new upper floor at Topman's flagship store on London's Oxford Street has undoubtedly raised the bar on the high street. Of course, it is well documented on the blog that I 'm a huge fan of Uniqlo and feel little competes to the colourful, affordable basics it offers in it's stores. However, like all of the other stores on the high street, I like to spend as little time as possible inside. When I shop on the high street I swoop in like a consumerist eagle, grab what I need and escape (hopefully alive). The new look Topman will change that.

The new menswear area whilst providing a safe haven from the madness of downstairs. Topshop is one of the few places that I really dislike being dragged around. Of course I used to escape upstairs to browse the menswear but there was only so many times I could circle the rails. The new floor changes all that though. It boasts a wide range of new additions to keep me entertained including a live DJ booth by Rough Trade, an EAT cafe with Wi-Fi access, a Sharps barber and shop and even a personal stylist. The flagship store is now a true menswear shopping emporium which compares favourably to the madness of the floors below and what the rest of the high street offers. The rest of the post is dedicated to my little nose around...

Having had my hair cut by the lovely, camera shy Barry I was shown the store by personal stylist Vivienne.

As well as housing Topman's own lines, Topman Design, Smart and LTD, the menswear portfolio has been expanded to offer a carefully selected collection of menswear brands. Chosen for their credible design ethics and cult followings these include Baracuta, D.I.E, Garbstore, Paige Premium Denim, WESC, Calvin Klein Underwear, Humor, Ben Sherman to name just a few. One of my favourite additions to the shelves in store is the latest collaboration between accessory label Bill Amberg and the high street store. The four piece collection is based on styles from their own Selvage range but have been re-worked exclusively for Topman in four 'ready-for-autumn' colour ways.

The Bill Amberg for Topman bag collaboration.

All styles are made in England by West Country craftsmen and the vegetable-tanned leather is from one of the last pit tanning operations in the UK. These strong, simple bags are very hard wearing and their appearance will only improve with age. I am regretting not picking one out for myself now. It is however, great to see British craftsmanship being supported and given a platform on the high street. Likewise, a new breed of designer is being given the opportunity to sell their exciting designs...

For the very first time Topman have extended their support to emerging design talent by including their AW09 mainline collections from Christopher Shannon and James Long which were shown last season at MAN. Year after year, MAN and LFW demonstrate that the capital possesses some exciting menswear talent but it frequently all too hard to buy!

The Topman Design Aw09 show was one of my personal highlights from February and it is great to see it close up again and have the opportunity to buy it. There is outerwear made in rich wools, herringbones and Donegal tweeds which all just make me want the colder days and night to come round faster. The show itself was a masterclass in layering, with fine check shirts over soft rib vests and colour injected into traditional greys and browns via chunky knitted cardigans and as all of the components are on sale I was more than a little tempted to try it out for myself.

Lens, the designer collaborations area is thankfully back with an impressive line up of designers. After the past successes, Kasper Harup Hansen, Dexter Wong, Carolyn Massey and Mjolk have once again stepped up to design new ranges which will help you through the colder seasons in affordable style. I have to confess that I concentrated most of my attention on this area.

The Carolyn Massey lens line is particularly strong. In fact, on the opening night I bought the navy scarf coat which I've been wearing to work when it is just about cool enough to do so. During my wander around the store last week I was eager to buy more but I managed to just about restrain myself. I tried on the below fairisle cardigan and it made me feel like Christmas personified. As it was only September, I thought it too soon to be reminded of that particular time of year but will no doubt regret my decision if real snowflakes fall later this year. Later this week I will post outfit shots of my new buys, I am just waiting on my jet setting photographer (Susie) to return back from Paris.