Your lapel has options

As soon as I clicked on Valet (for my daily dose) yesterday I was treated to another look at Antonio Azzuolo ss09 collection. I have to admit that I gave most of the Spring/Summer 09 shows little more than an unimpressed, fleeting glance...more fool me. A couple of month on and now I am finding myself noticing more and more from these collections. Antonio Azzuolo collections are always styled well and this time round the flowers in the lapels were replaced with pinned plumage (designed by Brooklyn Artist Christian Fastrup) which dandified the collection. The feathers were the highlight for me and now need to beg/borrow/steal or indeed make something similar.

As I debated with myself as to which feathers would look best in each of my jackets, I noticed the below text...

"You likely haven't tacked anything onto your jacket's lapel since senior prom, but these jaunty feather boutonnieres have a lot more style than that little flower."

Valet Mag - A feather in your jacket.

This is sadly true for a lot of us...I guess when we are feeling crazy we might pin a flower (or at the very least a poppy on Remembrance Sunday) but on the whole, our lapel is often naked. In recent weeks I've noticed that there are a wealth of options to dress up an old/new jacket. Below are my two current favourites and ones I'm eager to try...

Feathers

According to Valet and Antonio Azzuollo, 'Real Men wear feathers.' I'm not sure that I consider myself a real man...I would still class myself as something much more like boy like...but I aspire to wear feathers, peacock and pheasant feathers in particular. As soon as I get the chance I will take a trip in to central to marvel at the plumage on offer at MacCulloch&Wallis (the best haberdashery around). The Valet feature showcases handmade feather pins by a German company which has been producing them in a small factory on the outskirts of the Black Forest since 1924, and they a bargain at $40 from the Cooper-Hewitt museum shop.

Lego

This is probably the lapel choice of the moment. Will it last? Who cares, I just like Lego so why not have a little fun with it! As soon as the Lego brooch appeared on the lapel of Kanye's well cut suit during the promotion of 808s and Heartbreak, it was destined to be talked about and desired by many. We featured the designer twins (Dee & Ricky) who were responsible for the brooch but this would make for a relatively easy DIY project. I really wish I hadn't had to throw all of my bricks away...Brandish recently suggested Hamba beads as a cheap alternative.

These are just two of my current favourite ways to breathe fresh life (and colour) into a suit jacket. The options really are endless. I plan on experimenting with as many as I can this Spring, including the floral pins by Kate Cusack I mentioned yesterday (thanks again to Blindman's Circus for bringing these to my attention)....Of course once Spring actually comes, there will be a plethora of real flowers to pick from...then again as EJ posted last Valentines Day there are always flowers out there which can be clipped and pinned on to brighten any winter coat all you have to do is look for them.

Which lapel accessory is to your personal taste?

Will 2009 see the return of flower power?

Flower Print - Two looks from the Obedient Son SS 09 runway, Silk Libery Pockerchiefs and shirt by Shipley & Halmos.

The chaps over at men.style have looked into their crystal balls and seen a few key items which make up their spring fashion forecast for 2009. The twelve item list is a relatively small one, but the trends it mentions are well worth considering...I am sure that there are a few that you'll adapt to your own wardrobe in the coming months if you've not done so already.

The most interesting of the bunch was without a doubt libery prints. For this they say "Thanks to the green thumbs of labels like Shipley & Halmos, Obedient Sons, and Liberty of London (which lent its trademark blooms to Steven Alan for shirts, ties, and boxers), look for flowers to have more power than ever in '09."

Mix of floral print as captured by the Sartorialist back in May.

Upon reading this my mind began racing, trying to think of successful examples of where flower prints have been used to make an outfit (aside from the ones mentioned in the feature). I have to admit that I couldn't think of too many recent examples...the aw 08 lookbook of Jaiden rVa James featured were by far the best I could think of...when I was close to a headache, the above image popped into my head. I saw this chap during my time at the Hyeres Festival and like most people just couldn't stop staring at his mix of floral prints (I mentioned him in a post way back in May). He approached the prints without fear and although it probably shouldn't have worked, it most certainly did.

For me, floral prints are a little tricky to wear well but rather than be put off by them we should see them as a challenge. If you are feeling far from brave why not try sporting this silk Liberty print pockerchief? Blindman's Circus recently featured Floral Pins by Kate Cusack which would surely finish off almost any outfit...This Spring we should all take the time to pick some flowers.

Baths and secret shopping: An evening in with Monocle Weekly

I had the flat to myself last night and chose to spend the last part of my free time in the best place possible...A hot bath accompanied by Issey Miyake frangrance infused bubbles (a Christmas present) and keeping me company was the second edition of the Monocle Weekly and a cup of tea. Ever since I played in the bath with my Donatello action figure (One of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, this model was extra special as it had an effective swimming action), I have enjoyed spending at least half an hour so at a time immersed in bubbles and steam - there is a stigma of sorts attached to using this bathing method but I don't care who knows!

The first edition of Monocle Weekly for 2009 is just over twenty eight minutes long which is a pretty perfect amount of time to play around in a bath...any longer and there is a danger of emerging prune like out of the water. It discusses the run up to the inauguration of 'that one' and some tales of Iceland but more interestingly for us, discusses the status of the premium menswear market in light of the near apocalyptic financial conditions. The show is far from perfectly executed but it is refreshing to see this type of thing offered and I recommend listening to it...in a bath of course.

On being introduced the correspondent, Sagra Maceira de Rosen, shares a little joke about the pecking order of shopping in the average household..."first the kids, second the wife, third the pets and fourth the men" which highlights the traditional difficulties effecting the menswear market. It is pretty obvious to me that this hierarchy has been challenged and altered in recent years but it does demonstrate that the menswear market has always been up against it. She then goes on to say that we are facing a very conservative environment which will see a return to brands offering basics. Unfortunately, she makes the obvious point that in a recession, tailoring is one of the things which suffers most (a sad truth). However, one of the positive things which might come out of all of this, is consumers will focus more on value. Value doesn't equate to cheap. Cost per wear is just one equation which is important and should be applied to all purchases. In terms of my own shopping style, over the last couple of months I have really concentrated on buying items which firstly, I need and secondly, that will last. Lasting basics have always important to the menswear market and will be even more so today but I also look to buy more extravagant pieces which could be worn in many years to come. Pieces which will hang in my wardrobe and always offer a good option, like an interestingly cut suit.

The show then discussed something which made me chuckle into my cup of tea. A great deal of attention has focused on the impact of the crisis on retailers, during the final few hectic days before Christmas, reports on the number of shoppers, what they bought etc filled news reports, but none made me laugh like this one. Apparently, in New York within the luxury stores (Hermes is quoted) when people were buying this they were asking for their purchases to be placed in plain, white bags as opposed to branded bags (in truth I've never been too keen on heavily branded bags but then again I don't like anything which is heavily branded). The people who are shopping are somewhat embarrassed by their purchases...if they feel this way, as in if they have something to hide...maybe they should not be buying it in the first place. This scenario made me laugh because it reminds me of people drinking alcohol in the streets but of course using brown paper bags to ingeniously hide the fact that they are drinking. It creates a strange shopping landscape where people can still shop but no one has to know about it.

Have your spending habits changed? If you are shopping, are you doing it behind veils of secrecy?